Author JENNA CODY
Photographer XHIN TOH
As the oldest neighborhood in Taipei, Wanhua has a colorful and complex history. It has undergone many evolutions, from a nexus of international trade and extension of the Tamsui treaty port under the Qing to a commercial center under the Japanese. As Taipei’s downtown moved eastward, Wanhua was a largely forgotten and neglected district for decades―until it enjoyed a cultural renaissance in recent years.
Longshan Temple
Originally built in 1738 by settlers from China’s Fujian Province, destroyed by natural disasters and war, and rebuilt several times, Longshan Temple is one of the oldest and most well-known places of worship in Taipei. It is beloved locally, with repair and maintenance mostly funded by donations from locals. Although a must-visit place for tourists, it mostly buzzes with the activity of worshippers praying for anything and everything.
The main hall is dedicated to the Buddhist deity Guanyin (觀音), but the sea goddess Matsu; the god of war and wealth Guan Gong (關公); the god of literature Wenchang Dijun (文昌帝君); and Yue Lao (月老), who helps soulmates find each other, can be found here, too.
Bopiliao Historic Block
Bopiliao was in decay when the government initiated a restoration project in the early 2000s.
However, the block’s history stretches beyond other restored Qing-era buildings. There are records of Indigenous settlements here since the 17th century, and the block grew into a trading hub as settlers from Fujian moved in. The area was specifically known for animal and timber trading, its name quite literally meaning “skinning.” Buildings in the block include tea and rice shops, a public bath and a Taoist shrine.
Market life
It’s rare for a street market to gain heritage status, but Dongsanshui Street Market has managed to earn the distinction. It has occupied a lane between Kangding and Kunming streets since the Japanese era, and some of the original market stalls have operated for over half a century. These include Da Fond Fishball (艋舺大豐) and Duo Dumplings (多餃舍).These shops aren’t just must-visit spots in the market; they’re also a cherished part of the locals’ childhood memories.
Xinfu Market is in a courtyard off Dongsanshui. The unique horseshoe-shaped structure, built in 1935, once mostly housed butchers. It now contains an exhibition on the building’s history, lecture spaces and food options such as Wanderland Hirunomi (萬華世界下午酒場), a vintage-inspired bar that mixes Japanese day-drinking culture with food from Dongsanshui Market.
Enduring traditional shops
The lanes of Wanhua are packed with traditional shops. Founded in 1972, Healing Herbar (老濟安青草店) was once an unassuming purveyor of herbs and herbal teas. A recent renovation, however, saw a tea bar with a modern seating area installed, blending herbal tea with the concept of a Taiwanese bubble tea shop to offer customers healthier options. Healing Herbar is best known for its tisanes and customized wellness teas.
Some shops have been around for almost as long as Wanhua itself. Lao Ming Yu Incense Shop (老明玉香舖) is one of them, at over 120 years old. The shop is so venerated locally that it’s one of the few incense businesses that occasionally draw a line of customers waiting to purchase devotional goods. It’s located in the very heart of Wanhua, equidistant from two of the most historic temples in the city: Qingshan and Qingshui.
Fu Da Tong Tea House (福大同茶莊) is one of the oldest operational shops in Taipei. It has remained in the Tsai family since Tsai Han (蔡漢), an immigrant from Fujian, founded it in 1845.
Under its fifth-generation tea master, Tsai Hsuan-fu
(蔡玄甫), Fu Da Tong sells both Taiwanese and Chinese tea; some of their most famous varieties are Anxi Iron Guanyin and Taiwanese aged oolong.
Pathfinder
趣萬華(Chill Wanhua)
The old city streets of Wanhua are rich in history, culture and have a diverse food scene. “Chill Wanhua” connects over 50 local associations and shops, offering stories behind each store, curated tours, themed maps and a unique chance to enjoy Wanhua’s famous “100 bowls.” It’s a full experience of Wanhua’s charm from every angle.
