Author James Baron
Photographer Vision
Editor Julien Huang
Tea is deeply ingrained in Taiwanese culture, yet surprisingly, large-scale cultivation and export didn’t begin until the 1860s when British trader John Dodd started shipping tea leaf from his processing/warehouse facilities in what is now Taipei’s Dadaocheng neighborhood. The thriving trade transformed the sleepy enclave into a bustling port town. Today, traditional tea culture lives on alongside newer practices in Dadaocheng and beyond.
Below, we introduce two establishments, one in Dadaocheng and the other in Daan District, offering unique tea-tasting experiences in small, cozy, and stylish settings.
Asaban Tea Dadaocheng
Up three flights of narrow, steep stairs that are typical of the old buildings in Dadaocheng is a unique tearoom. A Zen-like atmosphere and aesthetic pervades Asaban Tea Dadaocheng: marble slabs serve as coasters on a sturdy wooden table, while a narrow red mat bisects its surface like a celebrity red carpet. Tranquil instrumental music murmurs from an unseen speaker.
Asaban founder Arthur Chuang (莊子德) emphasizes that the soundtrack and background elements change with the vibe of the guests. “It could be reggae, jazz, or even hip-hop,” he says. “Some people chat during the tea ceremony, others prefer silence. Some read, some draw.” In contrast to the neighborhood’s old-school tea masters, Chuang dresses casually, wearing a baseball cap and slacks.
However, appearances should not deceive: the fundamentals are always in place at Asaban, so guests can be “in the moment” during the ceremony, says Chuang. While brewing skills remain important, Chuang believes a “stable mentality and emotions” are paramount. The perfect tea ceremony, he says, is a form of dongzhongchan ( 動中禪）, literally meditation in motion, or dynamic meditation.
This unorthodox approach is reflected in Asaban’s menu or, rather, lack of one. While a portable device outlines three basic courses – one, two, or three types of tea or tea cocktails – there is no list of tea varieties and alcoholic accompaniments. Instead, Chuang discerns guests’ tastes with questions about the flavors they favor. Not having a set-in-stone list draws people out of their comfort zone, he suggests.
Tea leaf is sourced locally and imported from countries like Japan, Thailand, and Myanmar, with Chuang incorporating subtle differences into his treatment of each variety. The tea ordered is first presented to the drinker in an aluminum caddy spoon for olfactory inspection, then again in a petite clay pot after a customary rinsing. Finally, there’s the tasting of the finished brew. “We want people to experience the tea at all stages,” says Chuang.
Asaban hosts three sittings per day, each lasting up to two hours. Individuals and groups of up to four are welcome, with the ceremonial table accommodating nine people at most. Home-made mochi balls, grilled on a portable stove and drizzled with soy sauce, are offered as a dessert. Reservations are necessary and can be made through the Asaban website or Instagram.
Asaban Tea Dadaocheng
🚩4F, 218-1, Guisui St., Datong Dist.
📞(02) 2311-1800
🔗www.asabantea.com
🕝By reservation only
tei by OBOND
Blink and you’ll miss this upmarket tea-showcase cocktail lounge, which is located close to the popular Tonghua Street Night Market. At first glance, the rusty bronze façade of tei by OBOND, which was included in 50 Best Discovery (www.theworlds50best.com), could be mistaken for the exterior of an ironmonger’s workshop. But the glowing orb in one corner compels a closer look, and beside the orb is a narrow corridor leading to a door segmented by wooden bars through which glimmers of light beckon curious passersby.
Give the portal a push and an entrancing space is revealed – a tearoom that retains whiffs of Taiwan’s past while incorporating contemporary Japanese design elements. Featuring coppers, bronzes, and earthy greens that represent different types of Taiwanese tea, the mottled, uneven surfaces of the furnishings communicate shabby chic. From this anteroom, access to the main lounge is achieved through a tea-offering ritual (fengcha, 奉茶) with a delightful twist. Black tea sourced from central Taiwan’s Nantou County is poured into a cup sitting in a groove atop a rectangular post. The staff explains that a welcoming brew for visitors was once standard in Taiwan, particularly in the military dependents’ villages that sprang up after World War II. Upon presentation of the cup to guests, a panel door slides open, revealing a capacious barroom.
Equipped with earpieces alerting them to numbers and requirements in advance, staff seamlessly convey patrons to their seats. An introduction to the house business philosophy ensues courtesy of Joe, the bartender-cum-mixologist. Each menu entry is split into sections that detail the variety of tea, its origin in Taiwan, other ingredients (including the type of alcohol), and, finally, a flavor profile.
While other establishments also offer tea-infused concoctions, OBOND adopts a special “laboratory” technique, extracting from the tea at specific temperatures for a flavor that complements the other ingredients. In particular, the tannins – astringent from the tea extract and sweet from the wines – are brought to the fore. Counterintuitive taste sensations are created, an example being cocktail no. 6 – the Yulan Magnolia Oolong, which pairs muscatel with a homemade pandan leaf and osmanthus blend. Based on “Taiwanese food memory,” the combo evokes a taro-type sweetness. Glasses are dusted with matcha powder mixed with salt. Sipping from the unblemished side before trying the coated side is encouraged. The fruity woodiness of the former contrasts sumptuously with the umami of the latter. Says Joe, “Our brand explores the possibilities of Taiwanese tea. It’s our way of sharing the Taiwan story.”
WOK by OBOND, a Michelin-starred restaurant from the same brand, was introduced in the 2024 Winter issue of TAIPEI magazine. Well aligned with its brand ethos, WOK highlights the special character of Taiwan’s tea as well.
🚩tei by OBOND
553, Guangfu S. Rd., Xinyi Dist.
🔗instagram.com/tei_by_obond
🕝By reservation only
This article is reproduced under the permission of TAIPEI. Original content can be found on the website of Taipei Travel Net (www.travel.taipei/en).
