Author Julien Huang
Photos Levarcy Chen
Editor Levarcy Chen
After several artisan chocolatiers like Pierre Hermé and Jean-Paul Hévin have amazed the world with their craftsmanship in dessert, with the fame that soon spiraled, the chocolate market has expanded to a new horizon that was once defined by Godiva. Now, in many countries, locally owned boutique chocolatiers flourish in the market, and in Taiwan, Yu Chocolatier has become a must-visit for chocolate lovers.
In 2016, Yu Chocolatier made its debut at the International Chocolate Awards (ICA) and immediately won one silver and one bronze in the Americas and Asia-Pacific divisions. The following year, it achieved even greater success with four silvers and one bronze. In 2017, Yu Chocolatier became the first and only Taiwanese brand to be invited to participate in the Salon du Chocolat in Paris.
Founder Yu-Hsuan Cheng (鄭畬軒) began his chocolate journey at the age of 19, self-taught before moving to Paris to study at the prestigious Ferrandi Paris culinary school. After completing the program, he interned at the Michelin three-star restaurant Ledoyen and the renowned chocolate and pastry shop Jacques Genin. In 2015, Yu Chocolatier officially opened its doors in Taipei.
In the blink of an eye, Yu Chocolatier has now been around for a decade. From the young man who once said, “Even with my eyes closed, I can feel the changing pressure from the spatula scraping the bottom of the bowl while stirring ganache,” Cheng has grown into a globally recognized chocolatier, selected by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants for the “50 Next” Awards for future leaders in gastronomy. Yet his passion remains undiminished:
“The only way to respond sincerely to my desire for flavor creation is to keep creating.”
Having traveled the world, Cheng seeks to convey Taiwan’s essence through chocolate—using local ingredients to communicate flavor in a way that transcends culture.
“Take Taiwanese black sesame oil, for example. The Japanese may associate it with cooking sesame, while people from the Middle East may have entirely different references. Sometimes the barriers or connections across cultures don’t even exist—what matters is whether the flavor itself can move someone. And that, as a creator, you can never predict.”
Yu Chocolatier shares some moments with Taiwan’s culinary evolution. Ten years ago, fine dining restaurants like RAW began to emerge, and an entire movement of refined gastronomy took root. Like many chefs, Cheng faced the same question: “From your creation, how do you define Taiwan?”
He believes that culture is not defined by a single person or brand, but through the exploration of an entire generation. “To me, it’s like the culture of Taiwan—complex and diverse. It doesn’t need to be explained, and maybe it just couldn’t be fully comprehended. I’m Taiwanese, thus with what I’ve created and the aesthetics I was born into through this island—that is Taiwan for me.”
He adds, “Of course, we can use Taiwanese ingredients. But once something becomes defined, are we limited to ingredients, techniques, or formats alone? In the latter half of our ten years, I started searching for the essence of ‘Taiwan-ness’ that goes beyond ingredients—and it still exists within the work.”
Talking about local ingredients, cocoa from Taiwan has been highlighted recently. Although his brand has limited influence, Cheng does his best to support the cocoa supply chain. Previously, local cocoa was costly due to small-scale production. However, global cocoa prices have surged in recent years due to disease outbreaks, making Taiwan’s cocoa suddenly more competitive. As a professional and flavor-obsessed chocolatier, Cheng doesn’t limit himself to just Taiwanese cocoa. Instead, he aims to engage in the global market and do more for the industry.
For first-time visitors, Cheng always recommends the chocolate bonbons, which showcase various Taiwanese ingredients like black sesame oil and longan. For desserts, the jasmine white chocolate is elegant and aromatic; the Ultimate Chocolate dessert layers five types of chocolate with varying textures, offering a world of sensation in a single bite. Pairings with Taiwanese tea or spirits are also worth exploring.
To celebrate its tenth anniversary, Yu Chocolatier created a special blind-tasting gift box, featuring twelve handcrafted chocolates—six all-time favorites and six brand-new flavors. With each thoughtful bite, it’s clear this collection is a true culmination of his journey—every piece masterfully showcases the depth and evolution of his craftsmanship, from the studio’s humble beginnings to the present day. As in the next decade, his long-standing dream is finally coming true: opening a store in Paris. Now, entering the fiercely competitive Parisian market, a Taiwanese name is about to shine. One can’t help but wonder—what kind of gift will the world give back in return?
