Text　Hollie Younger
Photos　VISION
Editor　Levarcy Chen

Taipei’s older neighborhoods, such as Dadaocheng, are known for their numerous Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) shops, which offer ingredients like ginseng (人蔘), goji berries (枸杞), and jujubes (紅棗). If you want to gain a deeper understanding of the city’s old herbal ways, consider taking a DIY class that allows you to smell, taste, and work with a variety of herbal ingredients to concoct your own Coke-inspired brew.

The class is offered by Caomuzhushi (草木竹石), a group that provides cultural experiences and states that its mission is to “promote Taiwanese farmers and handmade-crafts designers.”

Our classroom for the day (Caomuzhushi does not have a fixed location) is a quiet and airy studio on the third floor of an old narrow-front building featuring a Baroque façade, located right in the center of the action on historic Dihua Street. The edifice is sandwiched between bustling shops selling all sorts of dried goods, their storefront wares wafting herbal aromas.

For the past two years, Caomuzhushi (lit. Grass, Wood, Bamboo, and Stone) has been offering specialized experiences to reinvent classic flavors. The team teaches how to craft herbal versions of cola, coffee, chocolate, etc., using TCM herbs and other locally sourced ingredients to promote sustainable living and celebrate the rich cultural heritage of this historical area.

We have signed up for a two-hour herbal DIY class that’ll take us through the history of cola, from its invention to the famous carbonated soft drink in red-labeled bottles people consume today. We’ll then be taught how to create an herbal version with a homemade brew of cinnamon, cloves, and a host of other traditional ingredients you might never have even heard of before.

TCM is an ancient practice still widely used across East Asia to this day, balancing yin and yang (陰陽), observing the body’s qi (氣), or energy, and relieving all manner of ailments. Our class serves as a crash course in TCM, allowing us to understand how the ingredients can aid in cooling the body down on hot summer days or heating it during chilly winter days, how they can help with digestion or with lowering blood pressure, and, more importantly for our experience, how they taste in a self-made brew.

Our teacher, Qiqi, first takes us through a fun presentation running through the history of cola and how it has been consumed through time. We then explore its present-day forms the world over, including the Japanese brand Iyoshi Cola (伊良可樂), a pop-culture icon in Taiwan, and the modern-day Coca-Cola brand, known for its fizziness and high levels of sugar. This leads us to the health benefits of our own brew, in which only a limited amount of brown sugar will be used, a somewhat healthier alternative to white sugar or corn syrup, and we learn about the drink’s medicinal benefits.

Qiqi gives us an overview of the ingredients we’ll be working with, from sealwort, favored by fasting Daoist ascetics, to the potentially poisonous nutmeg, which can induce hallucinations if improperly consumed. Then we get to the brewing. Qiqi asks us to smell and test each of 17 ingredients before we pick six to eight for our colas, depending on personal taste and medicinal needs.

I select slightly sweeter ingredients such as dried jujubes and mulberries, and those beneficial for women’s health, including ginseng. Meanwhile, my friend chooses a more bitter selection, suitable for someone more accustomed to traditionally used herbal ingredients, which is sweetened with dried chrysanthemum flower.

Next, I measure out each of the ingredients: a piece of cinnamon bark, a handful of jujubes and mulberries, and five grams each of goji berries, cloves, and tangerine peel. Then it’s time to bring the ingredients to a boil in a dash of water, followed by simmering the mix for 25 minutes.

While we wait, Qiqi brings us tastings of two of his special cola recipes, one more sweet with an herbaceous aftertaste, and one more bitter with a hit of classic TCM aromatics. Once our brews have simmered down into a deep amber liquid, we turn off the heat and add in brown sugar to taste, stirring until it turns to that deep mahogany cola color.

Qiqi helps us to strain out the liquid into a jug before we each measure 200ml for our mini take-home glass bottles. We each apply a “herbal cola” label, and voilà, we have a keepsake of our time on Dihua Street (迪化街). Once we get home, we can simply mix one part cola to two parts soda over ice to enjoy our very own brew. Before we leave, Qiqi prepares leftover cola so we can try our creations on the spot. Sweet, floral, and herbaceous, they go down a treat.

This herbal-cola DIY class is especially great for cultural experience activities, team-building sessions, educational trips, and even family outings, with participants receiving an introduction to traditional local industries and practices, and taking home some unique souvenirs.

Caomuzhushi 草木竹石
🔗www.caomuzhushi.com
🔗instagram.com/caomuzhushi.___
🕝Reservations can be made via the LINE app; Upcoming workshops are announced on Instagram

TEXT　Jenna Lynn Cody
PHOTOS　Courtesy Of Restaurants
Editor　Levarcy Chen

A restaurant’s first Michelin star is more than an achievement for the establishment; it’s a rite of passage for the chef. In 2025, a number of Taipei restaurants were honored with this distinction – offering a range of dining experiences from eco-friendly and sustainable to hyper-local, from bold Tuscan-style to delicate European-Asian fusion, as well as some of the finest Japanese cuisine available in and outside Japan.

aMaze

aMaze is just steps away from MRT Dazhi Station. Its austere façade evokes a Japanese gilt-iron tetsuyu glaze, complemented by bonsai-like twisting trees. The minimalist exterior gives way to an inviting space decorated in warm neutrals, wood, and art by contemporary Taiwanese artists, bringing splashes of cobalt and crimson to the space.

Chef Yang Guang-zong (楊光宗) not only creates but also reinvents Chinese cuisine, primarily from the Jiangsu (江蘇) and Zhejiang (浙江) traditions. His dishes incorporate elements of Western technique, Japanese accents, and local Taiwanese ingredients. The restaurant’s recent “Concerto” menu featured fresh mussels from the Matsu islands, green Huadiao bamboo shoots marinated in local wine, and smoked fish in a fusion of Zhejiang and Japanese flavors. The latest menu, “A Taste of Gratitude,” continues with premium seafood creations, high-quality wagyu beef, and warming ginger duck, perfect for the colder season.

aMaze was distinguished with its first Michelin star just a year after opening, but Chef Yang is no stranger to Michelin. As a chef at Tien Hsiang Lo (天香樓) in the Landis Taipei hotel, Yang helped that restaurant earn Michelin stars for five consecutive years.

aMaze 心宴
🚩598, Mingshui Rd., Zhongshan Dist.
📞(02) 8501-5980
🔗www.amaze598.com
🕝By reservation only

Chuan Ya

This is a fine-dining restaurant with some of the best views in Taipei. Located on the 46^th floor of the Breeze Nan Shan mall (微風南山), it offers carefully crafted set menus that move between different expressions of Sichuan cuisine – from the hearty comforts of home cooking to the refined dishes once served at official imperial banquets. Chef Jason Wang (王國政) formerly served as head chef at the local W Hotel’s YEN Chinese restaurant (紫艷中餐廳).

The Chuan Ya interior is warm and composed, using tones of cream, amber, and caramel with warm wood. This calm space allows the food to take center stage. Windows take up most of the exterior-wall space to take advantage of the views.

One of the signature dishes is the Golden Sour Soup with Crab Meat, Assorted Seafood, Mushrooms and Crispy Rice. This golden-hued sour soup is crafted with abalone, scallops, crab meat, dried mountain jelly greens, and straw mushrooms, with its flavor beautifully balanced by pickled vegetables, tomatoes, and yellow bell peppers. Into this aromatic broth, golden rice, which is first steamed, then fried, is immersed. The rice absorbs the soup’s essence while retaining a delicate crunch. Luxurious and layered, the soup delivers a springy texture enriched with depth.

Chuan Ya 川雅
🚩46F, 17, Songzhi Rd., Xinyi Dist.
📞(02) 2722-0303
🔗www.chuan-ya.com
🕝By reservation only

HoSu

This restaurant takes sustainability seriously. Although it earned its first Michelin star this year, it has earned a Michelin green star, given out for “green” or eco-friendly fine-dining establishments, each year since 2023. The restaurant relies on Taiwanese ingredients to reduce unsustainable shipping practices and engages in food composting. It also provides detailed explanations of each dish, enabling diners to grasp the ecological principles underpinning their luxury experience.

The interior reflects the same philosophy: natural materials, a garden courtyard with five-needle pine, and oyster shell paint walls. Everything else, however, evolves with the seasons. Most high-end restaurants change their menus seasonally; HoSu changes its decor as well.

Located interior reflects the same philosophy: natural materials, a garden courtyard with five-needle pine, and oyster shell paint walls. Everything else, however, evolves with the seasons. Most high-end restaurants change their menus seasonally; HoSu changes its decor as well.

HoSu 好嶼
🚩17, Aly. 20, Ln. 300, Sec. 4, Renai Rd., Daan Dist.
🔗 www.hosutaiwan.com
🕝By reservation only

La Vie by Thomas Bühner

Helmed by German star chef Thomas Bühner and Hong Kong-born executive chef Xavier Yeung, La Vie blends European techniques with local Taiwanese produce. Located on the first floor of Noke Mall, walking into the striking dining space is like visiting a modern art museum: bathed in cool neutrals accented with gold, the smooth curves of tablescapes and space-age light fixtures are something out of another world.

The menu is prix fixe, and for the most part seasonal, with courses that range from delicate starters – think steamed oysters with horseradish oil and celeriac ravioli – to luxurious mains such as blue lobster, frog leg Kiev, and roasted Hampshire Down lamb rack. Desserts include “ice pearls,” hazelnut praline, and petits kougelhof.

Apart from its Michelin star, La Vie has also been recognized for its rich fine-wine collection, spanning different regions and confidently presenting various vintages from top winemakers. Head Sommelier Max Huang and his team earned a prestigious “Best of Award of Excellence,” represented by two wine glasses, from the American magazine Wine Spectator in 2025.

La Vie by Thomas Bühner
🚩200, Lequn 3rd Rd., Zhongshan Dist.
📞0937-857-869
🔗www.laviebythomasbuehner.com
🕝By reservation only

FRASSI

Italian styling is rarely understated, and FRASSI takes its cues from the boldness of this design ethos. Geometric gold chairs play against walls of Calacatta marble and accent walls that evoke meteor showers at sunset for a look that’s both brash and unique. FRASSI offers especially elegant bar- and family-style seating options that can accommodate individuals, couples, or groups.

Originally from Tuscany, Chef Iacopo Frassi has called Taipei home for several years. He draws on both his Tuscan roots and experiences in Asia to create a memorable contemporary Italian-fusion dining experience. His kitchen cures its own meats, including a ten-day-aged duck that is the stuff of legend, served with earthy beetroot and black apple.

FRASSI offers a multi-course tasting menu and wine pairings. Lobster risotto is served with chive and avocado, followed by white asparagus with koji and parsley. Something special happens when the tagliatelle with rabbit and salsa verde is served, followed by the celebrated aged duck, the neck stuffed with pork, veal, and Parmesan cheese.

FRASSI
🚩299, Lequn 3rd Rd., Zhongshan Dist.
📞(02) 8502-6383
🔗www.frassi.com.tw
🕝By reservation only

Motoichi

One doesn’t typically think of Japanese tempura as Michelin-worthy food, but Motoichi manages to surprise at every turn. The team at this tiny space – there are only 16 seats – carefully selects seasonal ingredients for an evening of omakase-style dining. Omakase means “I leave it up to you”: it’s a Japanese dining experience where the chef is trusted to create a unique tasting menu for each patron.

Tucked away in an alley near busy Zhongxiao East Road, Motoichi’s interior is both modern and thoroughly Japanese, blending blond wood, carved elements, and off-white walls with contemporary style. Diners across the two rooms watch the chefs create each dish.

Some might expect the tempura to be heavy or oily, but Motoichi’s creations are light, fried in a delicate batter that seals in both juices and flavor. The lightness is achieved by using a unique liquid nitrogen technique that eliminates the moisture and water contained in the flour. Apart from the fresh shrimp, fish, and vegetable selections available one might choose something more unexpected, such as asparagus or even olives. Texture is an important part of omakase-style tempura, and Motoichi has been praised as nailing this element perfectly, earning it its first Michelin star.

Motoichi 元一
🚩11, Aly. 27, Ln. 216, Sec. 4, Zhongxiao E. Rd., Daan Dist.
📞(02) 2778-3380
🕝By reservation only

Sushi Kajin

At first glance, Sushi Kajin looks like every other high-end sushi restaurant in Taipei. You would be remiss in dismissing it, however, as it crafts some of the finest sushi in the city. The ambiance is elegant yet warm, imbued with Japanese minimalism: a counter made of Taiwanese cypress, subdued lighting, lacquerware, and a quiet, focused energy.

The core of the experience lies in its Edomae-style sushi, a sushi preparation method from Tokyo that originated in the city’s Edo period. Fish from Tokyo’s Toyosu Market is flown in and prepared precisely to enhance the depth of flavor. In some cases, this may involve aging or curing.

Chef Okuchi Taichi, formerly of the Michelin-starred Sushi Wakon in Kyoto, leads the kitchen. His renown is so great that a prominent Taiwanese investor funded his Taipei venture so that he could showcase his skills here, in a city that may not be Japanese but where many food lovers have a list of favorite gourmet sushi restaurants.

The restaurant is known for upholding a philosophy of craftsmanship, such as limiting sugar in the sushi rice, tailoring aging times by fish species, and emphasizing seasonality. In winter, the focus is on delicacies like kobako crab, bonito, and winter yellowtail.

Sushi Kajin 鮨嘉仁
🚩28, Jilin Rd., Zhongshan Dist.
📞(02) 2581-8999
🔗www.sushi-kajin.com
🕝By reservation only

🔎
Ian Lee | 李易晏
Tien Hsiang Lo | 天香樓
Jason Wang | 王國政
Yang Guang-zong | 楊光宗

🗺️Click here to see aforementioned spots on Google Map

This article is reproduced under the permission of TAIPEI. Original content can be found on the website of Taipei Travel Net (www.travel.taipei/en).

Stepping off the train in Hualien, I’m greeted by crystalline mountain peaks framed against an impossibly blue sky. A taxi driver’s warm inquiry—”Where are you headed?”—launches us into easy conversation as we wind through narrow alleys toward Chongqing Traditional Market on the city’s southern, seaside edge. This welcoming spirit, I’ll soon learn, is woven into every aspect of the day ahead.

At the market entrance, Sofia Chiu waits beneath a fisherman’s hat, her wheat-toned skin and confident posture immediately distinguishing her from the regular market-goers. She spots me quickly—I’m clearly an out-of-town visitor, and she greets me with an easy warmth.

After brief introductions, we dive into today’s agenda: exploring the indigenous section of Chongqing Market.

Where Indigenous Traditions Meet Daily Life

Within Chongqing Market (重慶市場) lies a designated corridor reserved exclusively for indigenous vendors—a living archive of Taiwan’s indigenous food heritage. Taiwan is home to 16 officially recognized indigenous tribes, each with distinct languages, traditions, and culinary practices. The Amis (阿美族), Taiwan’s largest indigenous group, are particularly prominent in Hualien, known for their deep knowledge of wild edible plants and coastal resources. The Bunun people (布農族), traditionally mountain dwellers, are renowned for their hunting expertise and intimate relationship with Taiwan’s highlands. Though Hualien is home to multiple indigenous groups, the Amis people form the largest community here, and their agricultural wisdom dominates the market’s offerings.

Sofia’s market introduction focuses less on tribal distinctions and more on the overarching philosophy that unites indigenous food culture: eat what nature provides today. This isn’t simply about sourcing locally—it’s about moving in rhythm with the land’s natural cycles, taking only what’s given, and honoring each season’s bounty.

Our first stop introduces me to amla (餘甘子), small green fruits resembling oversized grapes. The vendor places several in my palm and explains their nutritional prowess with unhurried confidence. The eating experience itself is a journey: initial sourness gradually transforms into sweetness, a metaphor perhaps for patience rewarded. As she lists the fruit’s health benefits, I let the tartness linger while absorbing the market’s ambient sounds and rhythms.

Further down the corridor, Sofia gestures toward an elderly woman carefully sorting through herbs and vegetables. “She’s nearly one hundred years old,” Sofia says quietly, admiration evident in her voice. The Amis grandmother’s hands move with practiced precision, selecting wild greens with the kind of knowledge that comes from a lifetime of foraging. “The Amis are sometimes called ‘the grass-eating tribe,'” Sofia explains. “Their ability to identify edible wild plants is genetic—they have stomachs like lawnmowers.” Even as a Bunun person, Sofia admits she can’t match their botanical expertise.

The market tour becomes a parade of unfamiliar produce: gac fruit (木鱉果) with its spiky orange exterior reminiscent of a small durian, delicate wheel-shaped eggplants (車輪茄), and fuzzy-skinned persimmons (毛柿). At one stall processing snails, a vendor enthusiastically invites us to share a drink, insisting we meet up later that evening. Sofia leans in with a conspiratorial whisper: “They’ve already started their daytime party—maintaining a perfect level of tipsy.” I can’t help but laugh at the contrast between Hualien’s relaxed pace and the restrained formality of big city life.

This openness, however, isn’t universal. Many indigenous vendors maintain a quieter presence, going about their daily routines with modest reserve. Yet when asked about their produce or offered a taste, none refuse. Instead, they respond with generous portions, worried you might not have enough—a warmth that transcends words.

From Ingredients to Kitchen

With our basket filled with indigenous specialties, common aromatics, and fresh meat, we drive along Hualien’s coast to Sofia’s cooking space. A member of the Bunun tribe who relocated to Hualien from the city, Sofia started Karenko Cooking Class out of a simple love for cooking and meeting people. Her fluent English allows her to welcome guests from around the world, sharing indigenous food culture across language barriers. She laughs as she explains the venue’s unexpected evolution: “I originally chose this location as a rest stop for digital nomads. But somehow, it turned into a cooking classroom instead.” Though teaching remains her side business, she treasures each guest who walks through her door.

I ask about the pandemic years—surely they were difficult? “Not really,” she says with surprising candor. “Domestic tourism actually kept us incredibly busy. It took a while before I finally got a break.” As we chat, Sofia moves fluidly through the space—donning an apron, shuttling ingredients from kitchen to workspace, offering drinks. “Coffee, tea, or maybe some of my homemade pomelo wine?”

A sudden movement catches my eye: a round, grey creature with enormous eyes peers from around the corner. The beautiful grey cat approaches with gentle curiosity, waiting patiently to be noticed before offering a friendly meow. For someone unaccustomed to cats seeking attention, this warm reception feels like a blessing—a perfect prelude to the cooking ahead.

Hands in the Work, Heart in the Process

We begin with rice, though not the everyday variety. Today’s base is glutinous rice mixed with red quinoa, destined to be wrapped in shell ginger leaves. Sofia demonstrates how to lightly toast the broad leaves over flame, and I watch water vapor escape rapidly from their surface pores. The toasting softens the leaves while releasing their distinctive aroma—ginger-like but sweeter—that soon fills the entire room.

Sofia guides my hands through folding the leaf into a small pouch, filling it with the rice mixture, then using the leaf’s own stem as natural twine to seal the bundle. These charming packets go into the rice cooker for an hour of steaming. While modern indigenous cooking often uses rice as filling, Sofia notes that traditionally, anything could be wrapped inside—a testament to the cuisine’s adaptability.

Next comes the gac fruit and pork rib soup. Since I’m cooking solo today, Sofia alternates between instructing and prepping, ensuring I can both participate and document each moment. Cutting into the gac fruit reveals pumpkin-like flesh housing a citrus-textured interior. Nervous about wasting this unfamiliar ingredient, I work slowly and carefully. Sofia and I fall into easy conversation—swapping life stories, discussing relationships, sharing the kind of comfortable gossip that happens between friends. It feels less like a cooking class and more like visiting an old friend’s kitchen.

As ingredients came together, Sofia helped sear the pork ribs with garlic and ginger before adding water and gac fruit to a clay pot, which we set to simmer gently. Then we move to my favorite part: grinding maqaw (also known as Mountain Litsea) in a mortar and pestle. These small black seeds, called mountain pepper by some, have earned international recognition as possessing a “sexy” flavor profile. Like a perfumer’s creation, maqaw evolves on the palate—opening with ginger and lemon notes, transitioning to lemongrass, finishing with a peppery kick. Combined with the shell ginger leaves steaming nearby, the air becomes a feast in itself, anticipation building with every aromatic layer.

I massage the ground maqaw into chicken thighs, leaving them to marinate while we move to the rear kitchen. Two large skillets heat simultaneously as Sofia adds vegetables in a rainbow of colors—red, green, yellow. “I like incorporating different colored vegetables,” she explains. “It makes the dish beautiful and ensures balanced nutrition.” Finally, the marinated chicken hits a hot pan, skin-side down. As the Maillard reaction works its magic, transforming the skin golden and crispy, our cooking duties officially conclude.

We also prepare a coastal specialty: seaweed salad brightened with indigenous chili sauce, its particular heat adding another dimension of flavor that coastal areas have perfected over generations.

The Ritual of Eating

Each dish finds its place in elegant serving bowls, and suddenly, a complete feast emerges—one created by my own hands. Sofia urges me to eat while it’s hot, busying herself with cleaning the workspace and stovetop. After documenting the spread properly, I approach the meal with something like reverence.

Every bite carries layers of meaning: indigenous history, generations of culinary wisdom, and the ingenuity born from living closely with the land. When Sofia emerges from the kitchen and asks how it tastes, I’m too absorbed in eating to respond verbally. My enthusiasm, however, speaks volumes.

More Than a Cooking Class

From that first glimpse of mountains upon arriving at the station, through the preserved indigenous culture coexisting harmoniously within the market, to physically engaging with ancestral knowledge and wisdom, the experience offered exactly what my city-rushed soul needed. A leisurely morning. Unhurried shopping. Meandering conversation while cooking. Slow, mindful eating.

This wasn’t simply about learning recipes—it was about remembering that life can be savored, that food connects us to place and history, and that sometimes the best medicine for modern exhaustion is returning to fundamental rhythms: gathering, preparing, sharing, enjoying.

Karenko Cooking Class

🔗 Link: Facebook
⏳ Duration: 3 hours (cooking and dining only) / 4 hours (including market tour)
💰 Fee: NTD$1,800~NTD$2,200 / person
🕰️ Operating Hours: 09:30-13:30 & 15:30-1830 2 sessions
⚠️ A 2-day advance appointment is a must.
📍 Location: No. 7-1, Minquan Rd, Hualien City, Hualien County, 970
📌 Note: Advanced booking required. Cancellation upon the day of arrival with no refund.

For the most current information and reservations, visit their website or contact directly through their social media channels.

The Yuanshan and Dalongdong area is spread out parallel to the south of the Keelung River in the city core’s northwest, centered on the Taipei Metro’s Yuanshan Station. Here you’ll find a delightful mosaic of heritage religious centers of worship, a time-honored night market, traditional Taiwanese and international-cuisine eateries, and a sprawling leisure-plus-entertainment park with outdoor food court and shops, a weekend farmers’ market, and a leading fine-arts museum.

Religious Sites

Walking west of MRT Yuanshan Station is a peregrination deep into Taipei’s past. Dalongdong Baoan Temple and Taipei Confucius Temple were once the beating hearts of Dalongdong, a community spread out along the Keelung River.

Dalongdong Baoan Temple is one of the city’s most ornate and busiest, recognized for its extraordinary decorative arts. Dedicated to the God of Medicine, temple construction began in 1804, replacing a shrine dating to 1742. This is a priceless work of art that has been recognized with national heritage protection status and a UNESCO Asia- Pacific Award for Cultural Heritage Conservation. The virtuoso wood and stone sculptures, paintings, and koji pottery have been created over different periods by Taiwan’s greatest masters, making it a showcase gallery of religious art.

Dalongdong Baoan Temple 大龍峒保安宮
🚩61, Hami St., Datong Dist.
📞(02) 2595-1676
🔗baoan.org.tw
🕝6:00am-9:00pm

Diagonally across the street is Taipei Confucius Temple, built 1920s-1930s. Though magnificent in its own right, it is a world apart from Baoan Temple’s visual gaiety – honoring the Great Sage’s valuing of simplicity, its mien is appropriately austere. Modeled after the original Confucius Temple in Qufu (曲阜市), China, no stone lions guard the entrance, no inscriptions adorn columns, doors, or windows, and there’s no image of Confucius, simply a memorial tablet. The site’s 4D Theater introduces the temple and Confucian cultural spirit.

Taipei Confucius Temple 台北孔廟
🚩275, Dalong St., Datong Dist.
📞(02) 2592-3934
🔗www.tctcc.taipei
🕝Tue-Sun 8:30am-9pm

Traditional Eats

Tasty options abound in the neighborhood. Tang Shan Po Retro Bistro (唐山婆古早味炸肉) is an adorable little eatery, a short walk west of Dalong Street Night Market’s north end.

It specializes in classic Taiwan-style bento and side dishes, with a decor emulating homespun old-time diners. Fried meats are their specialty, declared right in their Chinese name. The pork is beloved for its crispy exterior and tender, flavorful meat.

Order at the street-facing window counter, and if eating in, enter the long and narrow diner-style eating area through the old-style wood door. You’ll be entering yesteryear Taiwan: terrazzo floor, ceramic tiling, climbing halfway up the walls (for coolness/ easier cleaning), vintage conical farmer’s hats, and straw-woven raingear as wall adornments. The bestselling house bento options are the old-fashioned fried breaded pork strips and fried pork chop.

Tang Shan Po Retro Bistro 唐山婆古早味炸肉
🚩72, Jiuquan St., Datong Dist.
📞(02) 2599-7699
🕝Wed-Sun 11:15am-11:30pm; Mon 11:15am-9:00pm

Between Tang Shan Po and Dalong Street is Ice Cool (二水三京), another Dalongdong culinary icon. If you’re in Taiwan, you’re likely here on a hot day, and this modern-décor eat-in shop is a specialist in traditional shaved-ice treats and tofu pudding, two islander treasured means to beating the subtropical heat.

Among the quintessential toppings available are sweetened adzuki and mung beans, tapioca pearls, grass jelly cubes, taro balls, pineapple, and hard/soft peanuts. Note, however, that when cool times come, there are also hot items available, notably the warming tofu pudding creations.

Ice Cool 二水三京
🚩66, Jiuquan St., Datong Dist.
📞(02) 2595-8048
🔗instagram.com/icecoolyummy
🕝Sun-Mon 11:00am-10:00pm

Step east from MRT Yuanshan Station and you’re immediately in the Yuanshan Park Area of Taipei Expo Park, one of several contiguous areas used for the hugely attended Taipei International Flora Expo in 2010~2011. Inviting MAJI Square (MAJI 集食行樂), covered by a high protective roof, is one of this city’s precious places where you can eat and drink outdoors. In the Yuanshan Park Area’s south sector, a food court is its centerpiece, surrounded by a bazaar-style selection of restaurants, shops, and vendor stalls, many housed in cargo containers and shed-like kiosks.

The square’s MAJI Food & Deli is a select shop stuffed with myriad Taiwanese artisanal food and household products, many of which are great take-home gifts/souvenirs. As one suggestion, you can’t go wrong with Taiwan’s premium boutique mountain cultivated teas and coffees.

Among MAJI Square’s most popular vendors are those offering diverse international cuisine, including Latin American dishes, alongside classic Taiwanese street food stalls, a local bagel shop, a prominent British-style pub, and two bars focused on craft beer.

Maji Square
🚩1, Yumen St., Zhongshan Dist.
📞(02) 2597-7112
🕝11:00am-9:00pm

Taipei Expo Farmers Market Held outside the square each Sat/Sun, the daytime Taipei Expo Farmers Market (expofarmersmarket.gov.taipei) provides 120-plus booths run by small farms across Taiwan, emphasizing the agri-products unique to each region, from fresh produce to processed goods.

Fine Arts

In the contiguous Fine Arts Park Area to the east is the Taipei Fine Arts Museum (TFAM), opened in 1983 as the island’s first facility dedicated to the exhibition of contemporary artworks, its collection containing works starting from the early 20^th century.

It sits on the former site of the United States Taiwan Defense Command. The shape of the striking white-facade structure, seen from above, is the Chinese character 井, a form inspired by the traditional Chinese siheyuan (四合院), a residential complex centered on a courtyard with conjoined buildings on all four sides. The museum features four long, cylinder-shaped sections that intersect, creating promenade-style exhibition spaces. 

With a mission to promote Taiwanese contemporary art and fostering international exchange, its key internationally renowned museum-organized happening – Taiwan’s most prestigious art event – is the Taipei Biennial (taipeibiennial.org), overseen by international star curators. The 14^th Taipei Biennial, themed Whispers on the Horizon, will run from November 1 to March 29 next year, featuring 33 newly commissioned works and site-specific installations across diverse mediums and styles.

Taipei Fine Arts Museum 台北市立美術館
🚩181, Sec. 3, Zhongshan N. Rd., Zhongshan Dist.
📞(02) 2595-7656
🔗www.tfam.museum
🕝Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:30pm (Sat till 8:30 pm)

Situated by the south entrance of the TFAM, Rolling Dough is a recently hatched offspring of Taiwan’s acclaimed MUME Hospitality Group (MMHG), which operates multiple Michelin restaurants. The concept here is a specialty-coffee café where, in keeping with its location, the croissant is treated as a work of art (along with other artful pastries). The kitchen’s master artist is a celebrated Swiss pastry chef. His croissant masterpieces are post-traditional, molded into cubes, cylinders, and spheres beyond the standard crescents. There are six flavor choices on the menu, including Pain au chocolat, Seasonal Fruit chausson, and Marguerita Chausson (savory pastry). Other flavors, such as the popular Pistachio, might be offered as well. A unique non-culinary treat at this immaculate-white space of floor-to-ceiling windows is the thrilling sight of airplanes flying very low overhead – Taipei Songshan Airport is just to the east.

▲Rolling Dough © MMHG

ROLLING DOUGH
🔗instagram.com/rollingdough_tw
🕝Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:30pm

Bonami, also in the south entrance area, is another MMHG invention. Starring a Hong Kong-born chef who has worked in multiple Michelin-starred kitchens, this is a bistro serving French home-style dishes, but with a twist, classic French techniques refined with local-flavor tweaks, crafting works comfortingly familiar yet subtly refined. For example, the classic pâté de campagne is created with chicken liver, minced pork, and pork back fat. The labor-intensive, slow cooked pork head roll features crispy and crunchy pork skin, tongue, and ear, and is served with a side of perilla leaves.

▲Bonami © MMGH

“Bon ami” means “good friend” in French, and the stress here, with a nod to the TFAM’s “shared-with-friends” exhibition-visit experiences: no set menus, instead dining groups customizing shared-repast choices based on group size and preferences. Currently, only dinner (multi-course meals) is available; lunch offerings (light meals such as pastas and sandwiches) are planned for the future.

BONAMI
📞(02) 2585-0161
🔗instagram.com/bonami_tw
🕝Tue-Sun 5:30pm-11:00pm

If you visit on a Saturday, you can continue your art appreciation after a nice dinner, as the museum is open until 8:30pm.

🔎
Dalongdong | 大龍峒
Dalong Street Night Market | 大龍街夜市
Fine Arts Park Area | 美術園區
MAJI Square | 集食行樂
Taipei Biennial | 台北雙年展
Taipei Expo Park | 花博公園
Yuanshan Park Area | 圓山園區

🗺️Click here to see aforementioned spots on Google Map

🍷Please drink responsibly.

This article is reproduced under the permission of TAIPEI. Original content can be found on the website of Taipei Travel Net (www.travel.taipei/en).

Fulong Beach is a summer staple for its golden sand and annual sand sculpture festival, but the northeast coast holds far more than this single stretch of shore. Within a short drive lies a collection of experiences that reveal a different side of Taiwan—fishing villages with stone-house alleys, clifftop cafés with ocean views, sunset boat tours along dramatic coastlines, and trails that wind between mountains and sea.

Getting There: The Scenic Route

From Taipei, Fulong sits about 1.5-2 hours away, depending on traffic. While trains run directly to Fulong station and avoid holiday congestion, driving opens up the surrounding coast. Highway 2—the North Coast Scenic Highway—hugs the shoreline for much of the journey, offering continuous ocean views on one side and green mountains on the other. The road itself becomes part of the experience, with the freedom to stop wherever the view catches your eye.

For those approaching from Yilan through the Hsuehshan Tunnel, the northern route along Highway 2 passes through quieter fishing villages where life moves at a different pace. Either direction rewards drivers with some of Taiwan’s most spectacular coastal scenery.

Stone Villages and Historic Trails

Dali: A Village Frozen in Time

About 15 minutes south of Fulong by car, Dali village feels like a place the modern world forgot. Stone houses line narrow streets, their walls built from local rock in an era before modern construction materials reached this isolated corner of the coast. The village sits against a backdrop of mountains that once completely cut off residents from the outside world—supplies meant crossing steep ridges on foot.

Today, that isolation has preserved Dali’s character. Walk the quiet lanes and you’ll find traditional architecture, small temples, and a pace of life that contrasts sharply with Taipei’s energy. A few young locals have returned to restore old buildings, opening small cafés and shops like Dali 63, where you can rest with local snacks before or after hiking.

The main draw here is the Caoling Historic Trail, which connects Dali to Fulong via a mountain crossing. The trail takes 3-4 hours and offers constantly changing views—dense forest giving way to open ridgelines with ocean vistas, then descending back toward the coast. It’s moderately challenging but well-maintained, and hiking in either direction means you end near a train station for easy return transport.

Best for: Photography, hiking, experiencing traditional village atmosphere
Time needed: 1-2 hours for village exploration; 3-4 hours for the full trail
Note: The trail can be muddy after rain; good shoes essential

Coastal Dining Worth the Drive

AMIMOTO: Ocean-View Seafood

Positioned right along the coast with panoramic water views, Wangyuan operates its own fishing boats and Set Net fishing grounds, which means the seafood arrives remarkably fresh—often caught the same day you’re eating it. The restaurant runs a no-menu operation: you’ll be served whatever came in from the boats that morning.

Expect a parade of dishes—sashimi from fish swimming hours earlier, whole steamed catches, fried preparations, braised seafood—all determined by the day’s haul rather than your order. It’s the kind of meal that reminds you why coastal Taiwan excels at seafood: there’s simply no distance between ocean and table. The setting amplifies the experience, with windows overlooking the same waters your meal came from.

The restaurant accommodates parties from couples to larger groups (2-6 people), with portions adjusted accordingly. Prices reflect the quality and freshness—mid to upper-mid range by Taiwan standards, though still reasonable by international measures. Calling ahead is essential, both for reservations and to confirm availability of seasonal catches.

Atmosphere: Casual with stunning ocean views
Best for: Couples and groups, seafood lovers, special meals
Note: Contact in advance to reserve and check seasonal seafood availability
Price range: NT$1,000-2,000/person

Coffee with a View

B1 Cafe, Bitou Harbor

Near the dramatic headland of Bitou Cape sits what might be Taiwan’s most scenically positioned café. B1 Cafe occupies a building practically at the water’s edge, surrounded by rocky coastline and the traditional stone houses of Bitou village. The location alone makes it worth the visit—waves crash nearby, eagles circle overhead hunting fish, and the views extend across the meeting point of two ocean currents.

Owner Grace Yu, a former interior designer from Taipei who lived in New Zealand for several years, discovered Bitou through diving and fell so deeply in love with the area that she made it her home. She filled the café interior with repurposed furniture and vintage finds, creating a space that feels lived-in and welcoming. The café allows pets and maintains a relaxed atmosphere where coffee comes with conversation.

The real appeal here is the combination: excellent coffee, dramatic surroundings, and a sense of being somewhere special. After visiting, walk through Bitou village’s narrow alleys to discover more stone houses and the quiet lanes where locals have lived for generations. The entire village shares a single street name—”Bitou Road”—which tells you something about its intimate scale.

Atmosphere: Relaxed, artistic, ocean-adjacent
Best for: Coffee lovers, photographers, and afternoon breaks
Time needed: 1-2 hours
Bonus: Pet-friendly; owner passionate about marine conservation

Adventures on Water

Bitou Cape Boat Tours

Weather permitting, boat operators at Bitou Harbor run sunset tours along one of Taiwan’s most geologically dramatic coastlines. These aren’t large tourist boats—they’re smaller vessels that can navigate close to the cliffs and rock formations, giving you an intimate perspective on features invisible from land.

The coast here reveals millions of years of geological drama: towering cliffs, sea caves, unusual rock formations, and layers of different colored stone exposed where the ocean has carved into the headlands. The boat passes through waters where the Pacific Ocean meets the East China Sea, creating currents that support abundant marine life.

Timing tours for sunset adds another dimension—the fading light turns the cliffs golden and the ocean takes on deeper colors. You’ll also see traditional fishermen working from the rocks, standing steady despite the swells, using single-line fishing methods passed down through generations.

Duration: 1-2 hours
Best time: Sunset
Weather dependent: Requires calm seas
Combine with: Bitou Cape Trail, B1 Coffee
Note: Book ahead; bring a light jacket for wind, available each year from May- September. Operators cancel if seas are too rough, so build flexibility into your plans if you want to include this experience.

On Land: Bitou Cape Area

Beyond the boat tours and café, Bitou Cape offers land-based exploration. The cape itself juts into the ocean at the meeting point of two seas, creating conditions that attract diverse marine life—and the eagles that hunt them. Walk the cape’s trails and you’ll frequently see raptors soaring overhead or diving toward the water.

The coastline here features tide pools rich with marine life in spring and summer, when locals harvest gelidium, a type of red algae (石花菜), using traditional methods. This seaweed is prized for making agar jelly desserts and is rich in nutrients, including algae protein, B vitamins, potassium, iodine, and fiber. Watching the harvest is a seasonal scene unique to the northeast coast—worth witnessing if your timing aligns.

Bitou Cape Park, nicknamed “Squid Park” by locals, is popular for snorkeling when conditions allow. The underwater topography creates natural breeding grounds for squid, making it one of the region’s better diving spots.

Time needed: 1-3 hours depending on activities
Best for: Nature lovers, photography, coastal walks
Note: Tide pools best at low tide; check tide tables

Beach Conservation Volunteer Days

Here’s something you won’t find in typical tourist itineraries: joining a beach cleanup organized by Race for the Beach, a local volunteer group that’s been clearing marine debris from northeast coast beaches for four years. Started by local resident Chiang Yun-chien, these events have grown from a handful of participants to hundreds.

The experience offers an unusual way to see the coast—cleanups often access lesser-known beaches that aren’t on tourist maps, and there’s something satisfying about leaving a place better than you found it. It’s physical work, but the group atmosphere and the chance to interact with locals (and other volunteers) creates unexpected connections. Plus, you’ll never look at plastic waste the same way after pulling it from a beach by the bagful.

Check their Facebook page “海邊的接力賽” (Race for the Beach) for upcoming dates. Events are free, though donations toward supplies are welcome.

Duration: Half-day
Physical level: Moderate (carrying trash bags, bending, walking on uneven surfaces)
What to bring: Work gloves, sun protection, water bottle, sturdy shoes
Best for: Active travelers interested in environmental issues
Note: Chance to access hidden beaches and meet locals

Planning Your Visit

Transportation:

By car/scooter: Having your own vehicle opens up the most possibilities and flexibility for visiting multiple locations in one trip.

By public transportation: More limited but feasible for key destinations:

• To Fulong:
  • Train from Taipei (most convenient, 1.5-2 hours)
  • From Ruifang: Keelung Bus Taiwan Tour Bus Golden Fulong Line 856 (Ruifang Station-Maogang) → get off at Fulong Visitor Center
  • From Keelung: Keelung Bus 791 (Guojia Xincheng-Fulong) → get off at Fulong Visitor Center
• To Dali:
  • Train from Taipei to Dali Station
  • From Yilan: Take Green Line 19 bus from Jiaoxi
• To Bitou:
  • From Ruifang: Keelung Bus Taiwan Tour Bus Golden Fulong Line 856 (Ruifang Station-Maogang) → get off at Bitou Cape Station
  • From Ruifang: Keelung Bus 886 (Ruifang-Hemei Elementary School) → get off at Bitou Cape Station
  • From Keelung: Keelung Bus 791 (Guojia Xincheng-Fulong) → get off at Bitou Cape Station

Note: Bus schedules can be infrequent, especially on weekdays. Check schedules in advance and plan extra time for connections. Taxis are available but limited in smaller villages.

Timing: These destinations work as day trips from Taipei, but staying overnight in Fulong allows unhurried exploration without worrying about return traffic. Most activities take 1-4 hours individually.

Best seasons:

• Spring/Fall: Mild weather, fewer crowds, comfortable for hiking and outdoor activities
• Summer: Beach season, warmest water, most crowded
• Winter: Dramatic weather, rougher seas, fewer tourists but windier and wetter

Language: English is limited outside Fulong beach area. Translation apps help significantly. Restaurant staffs may not speak English, but pointing and gestures work for basic communication.

What to bring:

• Rain gear (weather changes quickly on the coast)
• Good walking shoes with grip
• Sun protection
• Reusable water bottle
• Light jacket (ocean wind, air-conditioned spaces)

Practical notes:
1. Seafood restaurants work best for groups who can share multiple dishes.
2. Many small establishments keep irregular hours; calling ahead prevents disappointment.
3. Boat tours and outdoor activities may cancel in bad weather—its’ always better to have backup plans.
4. ATMs are very limited in smaller villages; carry cash!

In Taipei, restaurants and street stalls that look humble can still attract serious star power. Restaurants visited by Jensen Huang (黃仁勳), the CEO of NVIDIA, regularly make the news. K-pop idols also constantly create buzz when they eat out in Taipei. Sometimes it’s a night-market stall with sizzling oyster omelets, a beef noodle restaurant that is open well past midnight, or a local favorite for pork trotters – all of these spots gain a bit more fame when celebrities pull up a seat.

Jensen Huang’s Favorites

Few business leaders are as well-regarded in Taiwan as Jensen Huang, the co-founder and CEO of NVIDIA. For many, he embodies the middle-class-to-riches dream. His frequent visits to Taiwan have earned a great deal of positive publicity. Entire articles are written about the places he visits while in Taiwan, including restaurants.

▲Goose meat, fried rice, and stir-fried water snowflake

On a recent visit, Huang was spotted at Goose City Seafood, a well-known quick-fry establishment in Zhongshan District with an extensive menu and quick service. As with most such restaurants, the seafood here is on display on ice and in water-filled tubs and small tanks; patrons choose what they want by looking over the day’s fresh catch. Among the most popular choices are the restaurant’s signature goose, along with classic seafood dishes like whole fish, a variety of shrimp plates, and fresh sashimi. The menu also features classic Taiwanese dishes, including items like stinky tofu and century egg cooked in a three-cup sauce—a mixture of sesame oil, light soy sauce, and rice wine. You can also find other staples common in stir-fry restaurants, such as fried rice and stir-fried water snowflake.

Of course, the goose is popular as well, with tender sliced goose meat served with fragrant basil, slivered ginger, and tangy dipping sauce, and both goose liver and gizzard, on the menu. And as with every quick-fry restaurant, no meal is complete without a bottle of Taiwan Beer.

Goose City Seafood  (鵝肉城活海鮮)
🚩77, Liaoning St., Zhongshan Dist.
📞(02) 2751-6922
🕝4:30pm-1:00am

Huang also visited Fu Ba Wang Pork Restaurant (富霸王豬腳) on Nanjing East Road. Pork knuckle is a quintessential dish in Taiwanese cuisine: braised in rich soy sauce, green onion, sugar, and spices – usually a combination of cinnamon, fennel, star anise, pepper, and clove – until the skin and meat turn a dark caramel color, it’s as indulgent as it is fattening. Fu Ba Wang regularly draws long queues for its bento lunchboxes, and also because dine-in seating is limited.

▲Pork trotters

The kitchen’s top dishes are all pork leg cuts: hock, knuckle, and trotter. The pork hock is a sliced cut of leg, the knuckle is the whole joint cut, and the trotter is the foot. They’re all succulent, collagen-rich dishes, but the trotter is known specifically for being collagen and gelatin-forward after the long braising process.

▲Pork knuckles

Fu Ba Wang Pork Restaurant (富霸王豬腳)
🚩20, Ln. 115, Sec. 2, Nanjing E. Rd., Zhongshan Dist.
📞(02) 2507-1918
🕝Tue-Sat 11:00am-7:30pm

K-Pop Stars Raving about Beef Noodles

When K-pop artists lend their star power to Taiwanese eateries, the country takes notice. Tien Hsia San Chueh (天下三絕) in Daan District, long recognized by Bib Gourmand for seven years, has gained even more popularity among K-pop fans after visits by Woozi and Hoshi, members of the Billboard chart regular boy band Seventeen. During their tour visit in July 2025, Woozi was so impressed by the restaurant’s beef noodle soup that he shared his culinary experience with fans during their Taipei concert. They even went to the restaurant again the next day. The visits, along with Woozi’s expressed desire to learn the recipe, and Hoshi’s Instagram photo dump, created a stir online and made the restaurant a must-visit destination for many of their fans.

The restaurant has always been popular for its exceptional food quality at affordable prices. Boldly proclaiming to serve “The Rolls Royce of Beef Noodles,” the restaurant is known for its upscale atmosphere, a stark contrast to the typical simple and often cramped beef noodle eatery. The key component of the beef noodles is the broth, which is created by simmering beef bones, ribs, and four different types of tomatoes for eight hours, resulting in a deep, rich, and sweet flavor profile.. 

▲Beef noodle soup with the upgraded tomato broth is a top pick

The Signature Beef Noodle Soup is particularly special as it features four distinct cuts of Australian beef, including beef tail, beef shank, beef tendon, and beef heel muscle, allowing patrons to savor a range of textures and flavors in a single bowl. What also distinguishes this restaurant from other beef noodle establishments is that it offers a selection of red wines (Cabernet Sauvignon), the perfect complement to the high-end beef noodle offerings.

Tien Hsia San Chueh (天下三絕)
🚩3, Ln. 27, Sec. 4, Renai Rd., Daan Dist.
📞(02) 2741-6299
🔗www.noodle3.com.tw
🕝11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-8:30pm

Woozi and Hoshi aren’t the only K-pop artists making waves in Taiwan. Enter Jeon Somi and Taeyang (also known as SOL). Somi is a South Korean and Canadian singer-songwriter known for her hit singles Birthday, Dumb Dumb, and Fast Forward, and Taeyang, a member of the legendary K-pop group BigBang, has pursued a successful solo career since his boy band days.

Both artists have visited Taiwan Beef Noodles · Chicken Soup while in town, a popular late-night beef noodle spot in Taipei’s fashionable East District, where there’s always at least a half-hour wait. The thick-cut beef noodles here are chewy perfection and served with tender cuts of beef in a mouthwatering broth with a hit of spice; one small bowl will sate the heartiest appetite after a night out. The chicken soup is a must-try as well, with its generous chunks of bone-in dark meat and clams working to create a savory broth with a hint of seafood that will have you slurping to the last drop.

Taiwan Beef Noodles．Chicken Soup (牛肉麵．雞湯)
🚩164, Sec. 1, Dunhua S. Rd., Daan Dist.
📞(02) 2778-7776
🔗facebook.com/Taipei.Midnight.BeefNoodles
🕝6:00pm-3:30am

Three Must-Try Treasures on Quanzhou Street (泉州街)

While in Taipei, Taeyang enjoyed more than beef noodles. He also went to the quietly famous Three Treasures of Quanzhou Street, a local nickname for a trio of simple joints dishing up food so tasty that cars sit double-parked on the road while their drivers line up to buy snacks for themselves and, judging by the size of some of the orders, all of their friends, family, or coworkers as well.

Taeyang and J-Hope from the K-pop trend-setter BTS, who has since launched a successful solo career, including a collaboration with American rap legend J. Cole in 2023, both tried the chargrilled sausage at Huang’s Sausages. This is a hole-in-the-wall establishment where the grill starts working (and the people start waiting in line) at 12:45 and doesn’t stop until 7pm or so. The Huangs churn out massive quantities of grilled sausage for the long lines, which usually form before they’ve opened for the day. It may take as much as an hour to get your snack as you share the sidewalk with senior citizens, parents with children, and people in business attire, but it’s well worth it.

The sausages themselves are larger than the typical snack eatery fare, and are the perfect balance of juicy and charred, especially when eaten with small bites of raw garlic clove. Raw sausages are sold at Huang’s as well, and can be purchased without lining up.

Huang’s Sausages (黃家香腸)
🚩32-3, Quanzhou St., Zhongzheng Dist.
📞(02) 2309-7428
🕝Tue-Sun 12:45pm-7:00pm

A few steps away, Authentic Auntie’s Large Intestine Vermicelli has been visited by Taeyang as well. The classic Taiwanese “vermicelli,” or thin noodles, are served in small blue-andwhite bowls and are surprisingly filling. The thick soup contains large oysters, which add salty umami, and slices of large intestine, which are soft and chewy without being rubbery. The enterprise shares a small space and two steel dining tables with Yuanfu Lemon and runs a brisk takeout business as well. It’s not uncommon to see diners pick up a bowl to go with their sausage from Huang’s, flavoring it with condiments on the table: chili bean paste, black vinegar, and white pepper. The chili bean paste creates an Instagram-worthy splash of color, but the essential addition is the black vinegar, which adds a complex sourness. 

Authentic Auntie’s Large Intestine Vermicelli 正宗阿桑大腸麵線
🚩32-2, Quanzhou St., Zhongzheng Dist.
📞0958-273-597
🕝Tue-Sun 11:00am-7:00am

The sausage and noodles pair perfectly with a lemon and calamansi (small Philippine lemon) drink from Yuanfu Lemon. It’s the consummate refresher on a humid Taipei day. Traditionally, a dried sour plum is added to this lemonade, a taste which may be surprising to foreigners but pairs impeccably.

Yuanfu Lemon (元富檸檬)
🚩32-2, Quanzhou St., Zhongzheng Dist.
📞0958-273-597
🕝Tue-Sun 11:00-until sold out

🗺️Click here to see aforementioned spots on Google Map

This article is reproduced under the permission of TAIPEI. Original content can be found on the website of Taipei Travel Net (www.travel.taipei/en).

Travelers often say that Chiayi is “Taiwan for Taiwanese people.” This isn’t just because the city preserves so much of old Taiwan’s way of life, but because every dish here carries an unhurried, down-to-earth flavor. From traditional morning treats to farm-to-table lunches, private chef dinners, and the steaming hustle of Dongshi Market with its time-honored establishments, Chiayi’s food scene moves at the same pace as the city itself—simple, heartfelt, and never in a rush.

8:00 AM – Chiayi East Market: The Heart of Daily Life in Chiayi

Chiayi East Market in the morning is one of Chiayi’s most vibrant places. Old stalls, vintage tiles, rising steam, and vendors’ calls create a rhythm that hits you the moment you walk in—you can almost feel the “stomach of the city” waking up. There’s no Instagram-worthy plating here, just the breakfast flavors that live in locals’ memories.

Beef offal soup is a morning staple for many Chiayi residents. Wang Family Beef Offal Soup (王家祖傳本產牛雜湯), now in its fourth generation, uses freshly slaughtered beef and various offal to create a clear, sweet broth. Beef heart, tripe, liver, and tendon each offer different textures—no gamey smell, just a gentle meaty aroma. The large soup pot on the table with “free refills” written on it is the most direct expression of local warmth.

The “net-wrapped meat roll” (阿富網絲肉捲) at Chiayi East Market is what old Chiayi folks call a classic traditional dish. It used to appear at banquet feasts and has now become a beloved everyday treat at the market. The shop insists on using pork caul fat and the pig’s diaphragm to wrap the filling—the diaphragm is a rare cut with only one piece per pig, extremely time-consuming to clean and prepare, but it releases a delicate aroma and tender texture when deep-fried. The outer caul fat becomes golden and crispy, while the inside perfectly blends pork, fish paste, and scallions with distinct layers of flavor. Unlike modern versions that often use tofu skin as a substitute, this dedication preserves the most authentic old-time taste. Because it’s so delicious, it evolved from a banquet dish to a signature daily item at market stalls, becoming a traditional flavor that Chiayi people can’t bear to give up.

This kind of morning—filling and familiar—is the simplest happiness in a Chiayi person’s daily life.

Chiayi East Market
Cash only · No reservations
Hours: Closed Monday, Tuesday-Sunday 6:00 AM until sold out

10:00 AM – Sweetness from an Old Hospital

After a hot soup breakfast, a bowl of douhua (tofu pudding) is just right. Taocheng Douhua (桃城豆花) occupies a building that was originally Ren’ai Hospital from the Japanese colonial period, one of the area’s earliest clinics with real scale. After decades of silence, the building was carefully restored by second-generation owner Sam Liu, born in the 1980s. He preserved the arched windows, terrazzo walls, and old wooden window frames, transforming it into a quiet dessert haven on the street.

The handmade douhua is silky smooth with a subtle soy aroma, and the sugar syrup is warm without being cloying. Toppings like peanuts, tapioca pearls, red beans, or white fungus each bring their own character. Beyond douhua, they also serve brunch items like open-faced sandwiches on sourdough and avocado salads, enriching your rest time with quality ingredients that show care for daily details. Sitting by the window with sunlight streaming onto wooden chairs, a bowl of douhua becomes the gentlest confession of the afternoon.

Taocheng Douhua (Guang-Hua Road)
No. 65, Guanghua Road, East District, Chiayi City 600
Hours: Closed Wednesday, other days 9:00 AM–10:00 PM

12:00 PM – SMART HOT POT (New Brand from SMART FISH)

Featured in the Netflix series “Street Food Asia”,The SMART FISH(林聰明沙鍋魚頭) has been running business for over 70 years, growing from a roadside stall to nationwide fame. It’s not only the first dish many visitors associate with Chiayi, but also a familiar taste many locals have been waiting for “since childhood.” After the 3rd generation took over, they successfully expanded beyond Chiayi to Taipei 101, and even airplanes. 

In 2024, along the road to Alishan, they opened SMART HOT POT (聰明鍋), reinterpreting the classic with a “one pot per person” light meal concept. The broth is still made with sa-cha sauce, garlic, and fish bones—rich aroma with distinct layers. Featuring personalized options, besides the traditional fish head pot, they offer new flavors like pickled cabbage pot and lobster pot, making it easy for travelers to enjoy. The space is more spacious too—no more squeezing into street corners to queue!!

The restaurant insists on using low-carbon Angus beef from local farms, linseed-fed pork that’s fresh without any gamey taste, naturally free-range chicken, locally delivered seafood, and small-leaf black tea from Alishan. Paired with cabbage, tofu, bean curd skin, and glass noodles, it’s abundant without being cluttered, relying on the sincerity of ingredients and well-developed traditional flavors.

Smart Hot Pot
No. 730-1, Section 1, Daya Road, East District, Chiayi City
Hours: Closed Monday & Tuesday, other days 11:30 AM–3:00 PM / 4:30 PM–8:30 PM

2:00 PM – Afternoon Tea Where Desserts and Historic Buildings Share the Stage

In the afternoon, stepping into Horikawa Tea Studio (堀川茶事)—converted from a Japanese-style old house—feels like entering an afternoon where time stands still. Originally from the Showa era, the building is over a hundred years old. The two-story wooden structure with wooden windows, tatami mats, old wooden cabinets, and vessels quietly displayed creates a space where light filters through latticed doors onto the floor, filled with the gentle atmosphere of careful daily preservation.

Desserts and drinks change with the seasons. The reservation-only “Cantaloupe Parfait” features seasonal cantaloupe as the star, paired with sorbet, macarons, and other fruit accents, layered like an edible dessert architecture—visually striking and rich in flavor complexity. For something refreshing, try a summer sparkling drink—passion fruit pulp, lemon slices, and pink sorbet blend colorfully in a glass; the moment sparkling water is poured in, the fruit fragrance bursts like fireworks, with refreshing sweet-and-sour notes adding soft tones to the afternoon.

Horikawa Tea Studio
No. 15, Lane 37, Wufeng S. Road, East District, Chiayi City 600
Hours: Closed Monday to Wednesday, other days 1:00 PM–7:00 PM

6:00 PM – A Sunset Dinner on the City Rooftop

As the sky gradually turns orange-red, if you want to create a memorable ending to your Chiayi food journey, consider booking the rooftop private chef experience at ROOF Bistro. This is a reservation-only, no-menu dining space hidden atop a building in downtown Chiayi—quiet environment, expansive views, and a well-regarded local “secret dining table.”

Chef A-Yao graduated from professional culinary school and has experience with both traditional Chinese banquets and Western cuisine, making fusion dishes no challenge. His passion for dining extends to tea, wine, and coffee. From appetizers to desserts, each course flows seamlessly. “I spent too much time in kitchens where I couldn’t see the sky outside,” he says, which inspired his vision for a future kitchen with outdoor views.

Fate brought him to this space. How to cleverly configure necessary kitchen equipment in a refined, compact space while maintaining a complete ventilation system and comfortable atmosphere for guests is worth discovering in person. Pair it with a glass of champagne or beer, watch the sunset cast its glow over the rooftop platform and distant mountains, and let the day’s flavor journey pause on a gentle note.

ROOF
5F, No. 172, Houyi Street, West District, Chiayi City
Reservations via Instagram or Facebook at least 2 days in advance
Hours: Monday-Sunday 12:00 PM–9:30 PM

Chiayi doesn’t win with glamour, but with a bowl of soup, a piece of candy, or a cup of tea, it slowly convinces travelers to stay. This two-day, one-night food journey is both a culinary wandering and a deep memory formed through gentle encounters with local culture.

Tainan has a richer history than most other places in the country. In some urban spots in Taiwan’s oldest city, which initially grew around a Dutch fort founded in 1622, the long history is obvious. Many of its oldest buildings, such as for example, Shuixian Temple (水仙宮) in West Central District, right next to Yongle Market (永樂市場)—the No. 1 hidden spot in Tainan for the special vintage flair—show off the scars that the centuries have carved into their wooden beams with pride.

Other staple pieces that no Tainan visitor should miss have the city’s long history inscribed into them in less obvious ways. A prime example is Tainan’s unique cuisine: Always down to earth, always with a delicate balance of sweet and savory nuances, it features many dishes that originate in a time before steamed rice and noodles became staples in Taiwanese cuisine. 

In Tainan, rice often comes as a kind of cake, for example, as the famous Tainan migao/rice cake (米粿), or as savory sticky rice pudding, known locally as wagui  (碗粿). Typical “Tainan food” is, in my opinion, best in the many small eateries along Guohua Street (國華街), around Shuixian Temple and Yongle Market. 

Hungry travelers should start their exploration of the area at Qicheng Rice Cake (七誠米粿) , in my opinion, the best migao in town. At Qicheng, it is served in several different combinations, from a light snack to a filling meal with fried egg and pork.

Qicheng is, as good restaurants are, often well-crowded. It is not exactly at the center of the bustling Guohua Street, though. The biggest crowds are usually a few steps further up, on the stretch along the Yongle Market.

The whole area is centered on the market, but to visitors, this is not easy to see. The complications that might confuse non-locals start with finding access to the market. Several flights of stairs lead up to it—for example, at the corner of Guohua Street and Minzu Road (民族路), where they’re relatively easy to find—but none of them bear the name of the place they lead to, nor do they give visitors any hints that upstairs lies a unique gem——a trendy place to eat, drink and shop, and a place forgotten by history.

The market is housed in an elongated three-story building running for about 100m along Guohua Street, only interrupted by a short extension of Lane 307, Ximen Road (西門路), which cuts right through it. The first floor, accessible from street level, is dominated by small eateries serving traditional fare. There is little, though, that reveals they are part of a market, or might at least be seen as such. Locals aren’t sure whether that is the case either. At one point, while eating a bowl of wagui at Tainan Yi Wei Pin (台南一味品), which serves the best, I asked my tablemates, who I had just met, how to get to the market. Some said I was already there, others pointed at some stairs leading up.

The second floor is indeed the heart of the market. It features two-times-two hallways lined with shopfronts. They are connected by a skybridge over the lane cutting the market in two. The third floor is not open to the public—but steep stairs lead up to the top floor from each second-story shop. This strikingly odd design feature reveals how many markets and small standalone shops were built in Taiwan after World War II. They were places to shop and places to live—downstairs was the family-run business, upstairs their living quarters.

Yongle Market’s 234 stalls measure about 4-by-4 meters each, and one can only imagine how crammed the living conditions were for multigenerational families living above their businesses. The market is clearly from a different time. Its architecture leaves no doubt about this fact, as do the things that visitors can find along the hallways, presumably left behind (or still being used) by its original tenants.

The market was built in 1962, but its history begins earlier. In one of the oldest parts of the city, it was originally the site of the usual maze of tight alleys alongside family homes and small shops. They, however, were damaged by the Japanese colonial administration during World War II. Fearing that fires would rage unabated in the area if Tainan were to be bombed by Allied aircraft, they decided to raze the houses and create a firebreak. With the original inhabitants forced out (and the Japanese gone, too, after the war), the empty plot became an informal market that soon gained a notorious reputation for stolen goods, hence the name “Thieves’ Market” (賊仔市). Questions about compensation for those who were forced to leave by the Japanese were also left unaddressed, leading to more negative sentiment. 

Thieves’ Market was seen as a stain on the cityscape, especially by the authorities, who decided to replace it with a new structure. It should be a fully fledged market, where informal street vendors could become reputable business owners. It still took a full 10 to 15 years until the Yongle Market was fully operational, though. Proper restrooms and drainage were initially lacking, and blatant favouritism had been practiced by the authorities when distributing the stalls, leading to disputes and vendors refusing to move to “bad spots” in the new structure.

Yongle Market has been underused even during its best times around the 1980s—or at least its best times so far. Even though many of the aging original market vendors have moved out, in many cases leaving behind no-longer-wanted possessions, or quietly shut their stores and moved down from the third floor to the second, the market is seeing a remarkable revival in recent years.

Attracted by its central location, beautiful architecture, and olden-days vibe, local entrepreneurs of the new generation have moved in, running a wide variety of businesses: From vintage stores to fashion brands, from old-timey bars to cafes, from qipao (旗袍) rentals to tearooms seeking to revive traditions that are on the retreat elsewhere. 

Let’s start with something special: At Qi Shi (旗時), you can rent traditional costumes that transport you right back to the Tainan of the early 20th century, for the day or just a photo shoot on site. And if renting is not enough, Pure Love Vintage (純情百貨行) might have the right fashion for you, from all eras past and present, including from contemporary local designers and brands.

Tea lovers have multiple options in Yongle Market, but Cha Wu Jie (茶屋介) and Lys Tea (莉蒔) are my favorites. If coffee and pastries are more your thing, Tainan Secret Cafe (台南-秘氏咖啡) is the place to go, and if you need a stiff drink after a long day exploring, Find Gin Bar (尋琴記) is my recommendation.

Different parts of the market have distinct characters: The northwestern part is mostly occupied by young businesses, while the northeastern part houses many original market vendors who no longer run their businesses, and the southwestern part is nearly left deserted. 

The same is true for the two temples that were included in the original design of the market, inside regular 4-by-4 meter booths. They still serve their function as community temples. On hot days, however, when residents open their front doors to let cooler air in, it seems there are many more temples all of a sudden. Many market stalls-turned-family homes tend to impressive altars.

Visitors to the market should always be aware that, while shops are open to the public, family homes are not. Giving residents the privacy they deserve is a must. It is true, though, that the blending of different times and different functions is part of the magic. Visitors are encouraged to soak in the intimate atmosphere in respectful ways.

One experience that I soaked in Yongle Market, finding it deeply impressive, was this: I was walking past a family home in front of which three old women were sitting on wicker chairs listening to a pocket radio (yes, a radio, not YouTube on a smartphone). The program was in Japanese, and it sounded like the airwaves must have been on their way to the receiver for decades. I felt like the history of the market had come full circle–from the Japanese setting off a chain of events by burning down the original houses, to me visiting the market and pondering its history with all its contradictions.

• Shuixian Temple Market (水仙宮市場)
  📍No. 230, Section 2, Hai’an Rd, West Central District, Tainan City, 700
  🕰️ Mon- Sun 06:00 AM -12:00 PM
• YongLe Market (永樂市場)
  📍No. 123, Section 3, Guohua St, West Central District, Tainan City, 700
  🕰️ Mon- Sun 07:30-17:30 
• Qicheng Rice Cake /Miguo (七誠米粿)
  📍No. 105, Section 3, Guohua St, West Central District, Tainan City, 700
  🕰️ Mon- Sun 07:30 – 20:00
• Tainan Yi Wei Pin (台南一味品)
  📍No. 177, Section 3, Guohua St, West Central District, Tainan City, 700
  🕰️ Mon- Sun 05:00 -17:00 , Tue off
• Qishi (旗時)
  📍Room 230, 2F., No. 123, Section 3, Guohua St, West Central District, Tainan City, 700
  🕰️ Thu-Sun 11:00- 19:00
• Pure Love Vintage (純情百貨行)
  📍Room No. 123, Section 3, Guohua St, West Central District, Tainan City, 700
  🕰️ Thu- Mon 14:00- 18:50, Tue& Wed Off
• Cha Wu Jie  (茶屋界)
  📍Room 125, 2F., No. 123, Section 3, Guohua St, West Central District, Tainan City, 700
  🕰️ Fri- Sun 12:00 -20:00, Mon 12:00 – 17:00, Tue-Thu off
• Lys Tea (莉蒔)
  📍No. 123之208, Section 3, Guohua St, West Central District, Tainan City, 700
  🕰️ Opening times TBC. Contact via social media for details.
• Tainan Secret Cafe (秘氏咖啡)
  📍Room 160, 2F., No. 123, Section 3, Guohua St, West Central District, Tainan City, 700
  🕰️ Mon-Sun 14:00-22:00 
• Find Gin Bar (尋琴記)
  📍Room 225, 2F., No. 123, Section 3, Guohua St, West Central District, Tainan City, 700
  🕰️ Mon- Sun 18:00-00:00

*Editor’s friendly heads-up:
About Tainan’s laid-back shop culture: opening hours here are more like gentle suggestions! Shops sometimes open late, close early, or take spontaneous breaks—it’s all part of the city’s relaxed charm. If you’re planning to visit a specific spot, we highly recommend calling ahead or dropping them a message on social media to double-check. But hey, if you do find a place unexpectedly closed, don’t worry! Tainan’s full of surprises, and you might just stumble upon another amazing hidden gem while wandering around. That’s the beauty of this free-spirited city—you never know what awesome secret spots you’ll discover!

Chris van Laak

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Jiufen captivates visitors with its one and only charm during daylight hours, but what happens when the tour buses depart and the red lanterns begin to glow? As twilight settles over the mountain town, a different kind of magic emerges—one that reveals why this former gold mining settlement has evolved into something far more precious than its glittering past.

“The real beauty of Jiufen only shows itself after sunset,” explains Mickey Tseng, who has spent 13 years running the Jioufen Goldore Museum that once belonged to her grandfather. As the day-trippers fade away like morning mist, the town’s authentic character surfaces, inviting those brave enough to stay behind into an intimate dance between the past and the present.

Night Tours: Stories Written in Starlight

When darkness falls over Jiufen’s unique “W-shaped amphitheater” geography, the settlement transforms into a living theater where centuries of stories unfold. Mickey’s evening tours reveal layers of history invisible during the crowded daylight hours—tales of how this mountainside became the beating heart of Taiwan’s gold rush and later, an unlikely artistic pilgrimage site.

Unlike other mining towns where workers descended into darkness with resignation, Jiufen’s miners carried hope in their headlamps. The town’s revolutionary “open mining” system allowed anyone with sufficient capital to rent land and retain 70% of the gold they found. This created what Mickey calls the “gold prospecting spirit”—a sense of possibility that still permeates the narrow alleys today.

“You weren’t considered a real Taiwanese artist unless you’d painted in Jiufen,” Mickey shares, recounting how the 1950s saw art students from across Taiwan making pilgrimages here with their easels. This artistic renaissance, supported by the Taiwan Yang Mining Company’s (台陽礦業事務所) cultural patronage, nearly transformed Jiufen into Taiwan’s answer to Montmartre. That creative DNA still flows through the town’s veins, visible in everything from the hand-forged art created by a 60-year-old local grandfather using recycled cans and nails to the carefully curated aesthetics of its modern establishments.

The tours wind through the “Qingbian Road (輕便路)”—literally the “flattest road”—where hand-pushed rail carts once carried precious cargo such as coal, gold, and dreams. Mickey’s storytelling brings the mountain alive with tales of ice-cold mine shafts that seep with natural groundwater, numerous ghost stories, and the 1917 stone-carved Guanyin statue, whose reputation for answering prayers keeps incense burning late into the night.

Must-Visit Cafés: Where Time Stands Still

Samba Cafe (山巴咖啡)

Finding Samba Cafe is an adventure in itself—tucked away in such a discreet location that visitors must venture to the other side of town and pass through a tunnel to discover it. This journey feels remarkably like stepping into the animated world of “Spirited Away”—passing through the tunnel transports you into a completely different world where unexpected wonder awaits.

The café occupies a beautifully restored vintage house that radiates cozy warmth through its thoughtful preservation of original architectural elements. What makes Samba truly special is its impressive collection of paintings by a Taiwanese artist Hsi-Hsun,Chiu (邱錫勳, penname Samba) who creates striking works using asphalt as a medium—a fitting artistic choice for a mountain town built on mining and industry.

The real magic happens as sunset approaches. Like a daily ritual, patrons naturally migrate from the intimate indoor spaces to the wide, spacious outdoor platform that faces west. Here, with steaming cups in hand, visitors gather to witness the sun paint the sky in shades of gold and amber—the same light that once drew fortune-seekers to these very mountains. This spontaneous evening migration creates an impromptu community of sunset watchers, all drawn together by Jiufen’s most reliable daily performance.

山巴咖啡 (Samba Cafe)
📍No. 352-1, Qingbian Rd, Ruifang District, New Taipei City, 224
✍🏼Online reservations needed with a deposit of $200/ person 
🕰️Hours: Mon-Sun 10:00-19:00
💰Average spend: NT$200-400

Hima Café (暇・咖啡)

Perhaps no café better captures Jiufen’s evening essence than Hima, whose name derives from the Japanese concept of “閒暇” (ひま, meaning leisure). The logo artfully combines imagery of sunrise and sunset above sea level with sunflower motifs—a visual poem about time’s passage that mirrors the café’s temporal philosophy.

The architecture seamlessly blends Japanese wabi-sabi aesthetics with contemporary design elements, while subtle gold mining references pay homage to the town’s heritage. Ironically, the barista confesses to being too busy to fully appreciate the stunning window views, calling such luxury “too extravagant.” This paradox perfectly captures modern Jiufen—a place where beauty is abundant yet precious, accessible yet fleeting.

Hima Café (暇・咖啡)
📍No. 18, Shuqi Rd, Ruifang District, New Taipei City, 224
✍🏼No reservation service. Walk-ins welcome. ⚠️Best arrive before 16:00
🕰️Hours: Mon- Sun 11:00-18:00
💰Average spend: NT$250-450

Yeshi (野事)

Yeshi occupies the former work studio of a remarkable artist Ta-Hua, Hu (胡達華) who didn’t begin his creative journey until age 60, yet has thrived ever since. His extraordinary artwork demonstrates mastery of metallic materials and intricate nailing techniques—pieces that create striking impressions from a distance, their forms bold and defined. But step closer, and you’ll discover the familiar fragments of daily life transformed: aluminum drink cans, plastic wrapping paper, and other discarded materials reborn as art through skilled hands and patient vision.

Beyond its artistic heritage, Yeshi distinguishes itself by offering local herbal teas that conventional cafés rarely provide. These traditional brews connect visitors to old wisdom—in earlier times, herbal tea was believed to heal the energy, its recipes passed down through generations. Though modern medicinal development has led many to forget these lost traditions, Yeshi preserves this old knowledge, offering both physical refreshment and a taste of Taiwan’s healing heritage.

Yeshi
📍No. 147, Qingbian Rd, Ruifang District, New Taipei City, 224
✍🏼No reservations service. Walk-in friendly.
🕰️Hours: Wed- Sat 11:00-18:00 | Sun 11:00-17:00| Mon- Tue off
💰Average spend: NT$180-350

Bars for the Night: New Gold Prospectors

M Bar

As Jiufen’s first and oldest bar, M Bar holds the distinction of pioneering the mountain town’s nightlife scene. This trailblazing establishment welcomes visitors with three lovely in-house cats who serve as unofficial greeters, creating an instantly relaxed atmosphere that feels more like visiting a friend’s home than a typical bar.

The venue offers spectacular window views that showcase Jiufen’s dramatic landscape, while the rooftop area provides an even more immersive experience for those seeking a closer connection to nature. Here, under the open mountain sky, guests can enjoy their drinks while surrounded by the sounds of the night—a perfect blend of urban sophistication and natural serenity that represents the new generation of “gold prospectors” who pan for connections and memorable experiences rather than precious metals.

📍No. 280, Qingbian Rd, Ruifang District, New Taipei City, 224
✍🏼Reservations: Walk-in friendly | reserved through 📞:0909678785
🕰️Hours: Mon- Sun 17:00-22:30 | Sat 17:00-23:00
💰Average spend: NT$400-800

Golden Bar (逸茶酒室)

Located beside Jiufen Old Street’s observation deck, Golden Bar is operated by the team behind the renowned Something Easy Inn, one of Jiufen’s most celebrated accommodations. This mountain town tavern specializes in original Taiwanese cocktails, developing unique drinks that showcase Taiwan’s distinctive character and spirit. The bar carefully curates local craft beers and creates signature cocktails using indigenous ingredients, serving as a liquid ambassador for Taiwanese culture high in the mountains.

With a name that directly nods to Jiufen’s golden heritage, this establishment continues the town’s tradition of hopeful gathering places where fortunes—social rather than financial—are made and shared. Here, each sip tells a story of Taiwan’s evolving identity, from mining town to cultural destination.

📍No. 190, Jishan St, Ruifang District, New Taipei City, 224
✍🏼Reservations: Walk-in friendly.
🕰️Hours: Mon- Sun 14:00-22:00
💰Average spend: NT$350-700

Mountain City Wine Flowers (山城酒葩)

The poetic name suggests the sophisticated evolution of Jiufen’s social spaces, where wine flows like mountain streams and conversations bloom like wildflowers on the hillsides.

These venues extend Jiufen’s hospitality well beyond typical day-trip hours, with many staying open until 10-11pm, creating the social infrastructure necessary for the town’s transformation from day-trip destination to overnight experience.

📍Location: No. 24, Shuqi Rd, Ruifang District, New Taipei City, 224
✍🏼Reservations: Walk-in friendly
🕰️Hours: Mon- Sun 11:00-20:00
💰Average spend: NT$300-700

Accommodation: Daybreak

After exploring Jiufen’s cafés and bars, finding the right place to stay becomes essential—both for practical reasons after an evening of drinks and to fully appreciate the beauty of Jiufen after dusk. The magic doesn’t end when the bars close; it transforms into something even more intimate as the town settles into its nocturnal rhythm.

Over the past three decades, Jiufen’s accommodation scene has transformed dramatically from the spontaneous “knock on doors asking for rooms” approach to sophisticated experiences that rival designed hotels. This evolution accelerated with Taiwan’s introduction of the two-day weekend, which created demand for short overnight escapes that could offer both comfort and an authentic local connection.

Daybreak represents a heartwarming collaboration between a daughter and father who opened their doors just three years ago, combining their passion for design with extensive hotel management experience to create something truly special. This modern sanctuary caters thoughtfully to both couples and families seeking a refined mountain retreat.

The accommodation’s crown jewel is its grand windows that frame Jiufen’s ever-changing landscape like a living artwork. The interior design philosophy centers on carefully selected furniture in neutral grayish undertones, complemented by warm lighting that naturally soothes travel-weary souls. This creates an atmosphere that invites guests to slow down—whether sipping beers while watching the harbor lights twinkle below, or soaking in a hot bath with panoramic views stretching to the horizon.

The experience of waking up in Jiufen, before the buses arrive and after the night has worked its quiet magic, offers visitors a rare glimpse into the town’s authentic rhythm—the same pace that miners, artists, and dreamers have followed for generations.

📍No. 49, Shuqi Rd, Ruifang District, New Taipei City, 224
✍🏼 Reservation: Official Website
📞 Phone: +886 2 2496 0988
⭐️ How to get there: Take Bus 1062 from Zhonghsiao Fuxin or Bus 965 from Ximen and get off at Jiufen Police Station

The Art of Slowing Down

Mickey’s philosophy of “multiple coexistence” in tourism speaks to a deeper truth about Jiufen’s nighttime appeal. To truly appreciate the feeling that nowhere else can provide, visitors must resist the rush and surrender to the mountain’s slower tempo. This isn’t simply about extending a day trip—it’s about allowing Jiufen to reveal its layered personality through the intimate lens of darkness and dawn.

The town’s unique magic doesn’t emerge from any single element—not the historic mining tunnels, the red lanterns, or the harbor views alone. Instead, it crystallizes in the spaces between: the quiet conversations in late-night cafés, the gentle clinking of glasses in mountain bars, the soft footsteps on stone paths illuminated only by traditional lanterns, and the profound satisfaction of watching sunrise paint the same mountains that once promised gold to generations of hopeful miners.

In staying overnight, visitors join a tradition stretching back over a century—people drawn to this mountain not just for what they might extract from it, but for what it might reveal about themselves. The real treasure of modern Jiufen isn’t buried in its hillsides; it’s discovered in the willingness to slow down, stay late, wake early, and allow this extraordinary place to work its quiet transformation on anyone patient enough to receive it.

As Mickey puts it, her goal is to give visitors “an extra filter” through which to see Jiufen. That filter, it turns out, works best in the gentle light of lanterns and the golden hour of dawn—times when the mountain town shares its deepest secrets with those who choose to listen.

Longshan Temple (龍山寺) Visit & Its Historical Significance

Your journey through Wanhua begins at its spiritual heart—Longshan Temple (龍山寺), established in 1738. This ornate Buddhist and Taoist temple isn’t just a place of worship; it’s the cultural anchor that has witnessed nearly three centuries of Taipei’s transformation. As incense spirals upward and devotees pray for prosperity and protection, you’re standing at the epicenter of what was once called Monga (艋舺), derived from the indigenous Ketagalan word for “small boat”—a reference to the canoes that brought indigenous traders to exchange goods with Han Chinese settlers.

The temple’s intricate dragon carvings, gilded columns, and perpetual hum of prayers tell the story of Taiwan’s religious syncretism and the resilience of a community that has weathered everything from natural disasters to urban modernization. But while Longshan Temple draws millions of visitors annually, the true soul of Wanhua lies in its surrounding streets, markets, and hidden corners that most tourists never discover.

Meet Your Guide: Kevin Shih, Your Storyteller of the Streets

To truly understand Wanhua’s layered history, you need someone who has walked these streets since childhood. Enter Kevin Shih from 沐育文化 (Muyuing), whose passion for his neighborhood runs deeper than most tour guides. Since fourth grade, Kevin has been volunteering as a local guide, building an intimate connection with every alley and historical building in the area.

After working elsewhere for several years, Kevin noticed how his homeland seemed frozen in time while other districts advanced rapidly. This observation sparked his decision to return home and dedicate himself to revitalizing Wanhua’s rich cultural heritage. Kevin’s storytelling transforms weathered facades into windows to the past, revealing how this “countryside within Taipei” preserves authentic Taiwanese culture that has been diluted elsewhere in the city.

Through Kevin’s eyes, you’ll discover that Wanhua (literally meaning “myriad prosperity” in Japanese colonial terminology) encompasses much more than most people realize. The modern Wanhua District actually comprises three distinct areas: North Wanhua (Ximending), Central Wanhua (the original Monga), and South Wanhua (formerly Shuangyuan District, known locally as “Jiala”—meaning “fertile land” in the indigenous language).

World Afternoon Bar (世界下午酒場)：A Cozy Morning Bar in a Historical Market Corner

Nestled within the historic Xin Fu Market, World Afternoon Bar (世界下午酒場) represents Wanhua’s innovative approach to preserving tradition while embracing modernity. This stylishly intimate bar serves as the perfect transition from temple solemnity to neighborhood conviviality, offering both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages in a setting that feels more like a friend’s living room than a commercial establishment.

What makes this bar truly special is its symbiotic relationship with the adjacent Dongsanshui Market (東三水市場), the biggest traditional morning market since 1935. Rather than serving food directly, the bar provides adorable reusable plates and bowls, encouraging patrons to step next door into Dongsanshui Market to purchase fresh dishes from various vendors and bring them back to enjoy with their drinks. This sustainable approach eliminates food packaging waste while creating a unique dining experience that benefits both the bar and neighboring market vendors.

This codependent model reflects Wanhua’s community spirit—businesses supporting each other rather than competing, creating stronger relationships that have sustained the neighborhood for generations. As you sip your drink surrounded by market sounds and aromas, you’re participating in a modern interpretation of the same cooperative spirit that built Monga centuries ago.

Dongsanshui Market & Breakfast Favorites Around the Area

Just next to Xin Fu Market, Dongsanshui Market pulses with the rhythm of daily life that has remained unchanged for decades. Unlike the sanitized food courts found in modern Taipei, this market maintains its authentic character while welcoming curious visitors with genuine warmth. The market has embraced modernity by accepting QR code payments alongside cash, demonstrating its commitment to evolution without losing its soul.

Kevin recommends these must-try delicacies that represent the true flavors of local Wanhua:

• 阿婆油飯 (Grandma’s Oil Rice) – Sticky rice infused with soy sauce, mushrooms, and tender pork, representing comfort food at its finest
• 台南辣 (Tainan Spicy) – Mama’s flavor appetizer that perfectly matches a glass of cold drinks. From veggies to cooked meat, flavored from sour to spicy
• 竹圍土雞 (Bamboo Fence Native Chicken) – Free-range chicken prepared with traditional techniques from over thirty years of experience
• 周記肉粥店-紅燒肉 (Zhou’s Meat Porridge Shop – Braised Pork) – Soul-warming congee with melt-in-your-mouth braised pork, with just the right amount of crispy blends with tender soft meat
• 金好吃純正花枝羹 (Jin Hao Chi Pure Squid Soup) – Fresh squid, captured and sent straight from the harbor in savory broth that has satisfied locals for generations
• 萬味福利社 (Taiwanese Oden) – Local interpretation of Japanese comfort food, adapted to Taiwanese tastes
• 艋舺大豐魚丸店 (Monga Dafeng Fish Ball Shop) – Handmade deep-fried fish balls that bounce with freshness

Xin Fu Market (新富町文化市場): A Historic Structure, Reimagined

Now speaking of the dining environment in World Afternoon Bar, one must mention the remarkable story behind Xin Fu Market itself. The very building that houses this cozy afternoon bar is an architectural marvel and a testament to forward-thinking urban planning. Originally constructed during the Japanese colonial period to address public health concerns about street vendors, Xin Fu Market was Taipei’s first modern market, incorporating revolutionary concepts like separate areas for different food types, proper sewage systems, natural lighting, and ventilation.

The building’s distinctive U-shaped design wasn’t merely aesthetic—it represented a bold departure from traditional rectangular market layouts, symbolizing modernity and progress. Today, thanks to thoughtful revitalization efforts by the JUT Foundation (忠泰建設文化基金會), this historic structure has found new life as a cultural space featuring rotating exhibitions, creative markets, and specialty shops.

What makes Xin Fu Market’s transformation particularly remarkable is how the JUT Foundation overcame initial resistance from local residents. Through community engagement programs, vendor story documentation projects, and initiatives that helped traditional merchants develop their brands, the foundation earned the trust and support of the neighborhood. This collaborative approach created one of Taiwan’s few successful examples of corporate cultural investment that genuinely benefits the local community.

Don’t Miss Out: Taipei’s Oldest Street — Guiyang Street (貴陽街)

A ten-minute walk from Longshan Temple brings you to Guiyang Street, which holds the distinction of being Taipei’s very first commercial street. For over 300 years, this street has served as the main artery connecting the river port to inland Taipei, walked by indigenous traders, Han Chinese merchants, Japanese administrators, and modern-day locals seeking authentic experiences.

Unlike the tourist-oriented shops around Longshan Temple, Guiyang Street represents where old Monga residents actually live and shop. The street houses two of Wanhua’s four major temples—Qingshan Temple (青山宮) and Qingshui Temple (清水巖)—and serves as the route for Taipei’s largest annual religious procession, the Qingshan King Festival.

Essential stops along Guiyang Street include:

• 福大同茶莊 (Fu Da Tong Tea Retailer) – Wanhua’s oldest tea retailer since 1895, preserving Taiwan’s tea heritage through generations of expertise and traditional preparation methods, as well as fine pu-er tea selection
• 老濟安青草茶 (Lao Ji An Herbal Tea) – Offering cooling herbal drinks from time-honored recipes that have provided relief from Taipei’s humid summers for over a century
• Tree.DA² drinks – A heartwarming mother-and-son tea shop where each cup features handwritten words in different languages, surprising visitors with warm messages that embody Taiwan’s genuine hospitality

The concentration of century-old establishments along this single street is remarkable even by Taiwanese standards. Many shops represent continuous family operations spanning three to four generations, their weathered signboards and traditional storefronts serving as living museums of commercial heritage.

Don’t Miss Out Either: Bopiliao Historical Block (剝皮寮歷史街區)

Your journey through Wanhua’s layers of history concludes at Bopiliao Historical Block, Taipei’s only completely preserved Qing Dynasty and Japanese colonial era streetscape. Unlike other areas where modern development has obscured historical architecture, Bopiliao was intentionally preserved as a museum district, offering visitors an unfiltered glimpse into early Taiwanese urban life.

The red brick lanes, traditional wooden signboards, and detailed exhibitions transport you back to an era when ox carts navigated these same paths and merchants hawked their wares from wooden stalls. Each restored building tells part of the story of how ordinary Taiwanese families lived, worked, and prospered in this bustling commercial district.

While Bopiliao functions primarily as a cultural heritage site rather than a living neighborhood, its meticulous preservation provides invaluable context for understanding the architectural and social evolution you’ve witnessed throughout your day in Wanhua. The juxtaposition of this frozen-in-time streetscape with the vibrant, evolving communities you’ve explored illustrates how Wanhua successfully balances heritage preservation with contemporary vitality.

As you walk these quiet lanes at the end of your day, you’ll understand why Kevin and other locals refer to Wanhua as Taiwan’s “first stop”—not because it’s the most convenient destination, but because it offers the most complete introduction to Taiwanese culture, history, and community spirit that you’ll find anywhere on the island.