Author LINDEN CHEN
Photographer XHIN TOH
Yilan’s Toucheng (頭城) is an unassuming small town on Taiwan’s east coast that has been significantly affected by an aging population. By the end of 2023, the proportion of people aged 65 or older had reached 19.94 percent, only a few birthdays away from being considered “super-aged.” However, its unique location and heritage are transforming the fate of this small town.
Peng Ren-hong (彭仁鴻), the founder of GoldFish Space (金魚厝邊), which provides relocation, exchange and other local information services, is eager to share the town’s stories with visitors to his shop in a townhouse in Toucheng’s historic center.
Once upon a time
Wu Sha (吳沙), a central figure in the development of the Lanyang Plain (蘭陽平原) during the Qing Dynasty, arrived at Wushi Harbor (烏石港) in 1796 and established the first immigrant settlement in eastern Taiwan, Peng says.
He was also the one who gave Toucheng its name, he adds.
It was the area’s population center and quickly developed a strong commercial atmosphere, with many goods being shipped from here to major ports in China, Peng says.
Even though it lost its former status as northern Taiwan’s busiest trading hub long ago, surpassed by the ports of Keelung and Taipei, the influence of marine culture remains deeply rooted. During the Qing Dynasty, Heping Street (formerly known as Touwei Street) was the most prosperous commercial street in the area. To protect residents engaged in trade and fishing activities, two land god temples were established at both ends of the street in 1863, and people hoped the deity would bring prosperity to the entire street. Even over 150 years later, the temples still see a steady stream of worshipers.
Delicacies from the sea
Near Wushi Harbor, seafood restaurants such as Happiness No. 36 (幸福36號) serve the fresh catch of the day. Thanks to its convenient location, it is also the place where many domestic and international visitors try surfing, stand-up paddleboarding or snorkeling for the first time. The gentle waves that are typical during summer are perfect for beginners, while in the winter, during the northeast monsoon, you can see experts showing off their skills.
Happy accidents
Even on Toucheng’s Old Street, which is a half-hour walk or a 7-minute drive from Wushi Harbor, the influence of marine culture is evident. In local workshops, seaweed collected by an all-female crew of divers is processed into agar jelly, which is usually firm and has to be cut into digestible pieces before it is served. However, the owner of Hito Gelidium Jelly (Hito石花凍), Chen Huijuan (陳慧娟), and her mother-in-law once made a mistake during production, with the result that the agar did not congeal properly. It was drinkable through a straw though―and proved to be delicious. This unexpected success turned it into a popular drink, and helped Hito grow from a small roadside stall to a store on Old Street.
Expats falling in love
Toucheng’s special blend of history and marine culture has attracted many foreigners to settle in the area.
For example, Anje, who grew up in Cape Town, South Africa, opened The Thirsty Owl in an old house near Toucheng Train Station. The Thirsty Owl serves coffee and snacks during the day and turns into a bar in the evening.
Garrett from California, who has been a catalyst of the local surf scene since he moved to Toucheng over a decade ago, runs Drifters Pizza Pub in the backyard of a house near Wai’ao Train Station. No matter when you visit, you’ll find pizza and beer lovers from all over the world at Drifters, some still in their surfing gear.
It is the scene of a unique, internationally friendly and creative town thats unfolding before our eyes.
Pathfinder
The Town’s Daykeeper（小鎮職日生）
Centered around Toucheng, the“town’s daykeeper”brings together local craftsmanship and Yilan’s coastal surf culture, offering a new way to explore this vibrant town.
