Author Levarcy Chen
Photos Levarcy Chen, POUYUENJI HILLS
Editor Julien Huang
In Taiwan, tea is without a doubt one of the most famous and representative cultural icons. While most people are familiar with oolong or black tea, fewer may know of a destination devoted exclusively to Puer. Nestled in the foothills of mid-Taiwan, POUYUENJI HILLS is not just a tea destination—it’s a slow-living sanctuary shaped by the depth of Puer tea, the aesthetics of contemporary design, and a quiet philosophy that invites visitors to pause, sip, and breathe. Conceived by Pou Chen Group (寶成集團) founder Tsai Chi-Chien (蔡其建) and his son Tsai Ming-Lun (蔡明倫) as a personal retreat—Pou Chen, a Taiwanese manufacturing powerhouse valued in the billions and best known for producing shoes for brands like Nike and Adidas—this hillside space gradually transformed into an immersive experience where tea, architecture, and nature intertwine.
A Personal Connection with Puer
Puer tea (普洱茶), a heavily fermented tea originating in Yunnan, China, is known for its earthy flavor and aging potential. To the Tsai family, it became more than just a beverage—it embodied warmth, introspection, and connection. That emotional resonance laid the foundation for Pou Yuen Ji (寶元紀), named to honor the Tsai family’s roots—specifically, founder Tsai Chi-Chien’s (蔡其建) father, Tsai Yu-Yuan (蔡裕元)—and to reflect a generational connection that blends tradition with personal legacy.
What began as a peaceful gathering place for tea lovers has since evolved into a curated environment that mirrors the character of Puer tea itself—layered, mellow, and refined over time.
The connection between Mr. Tsai and Puer dates back to an unexpected encounter in Yunnan, where Mr. Tsai first traveled to source architectural materials for the restoration of the historically significant Longshan Temple in Lukang after the destruction of the 921 earthquake, a key spiritual site for many locals from his hometown. Introduced to Puer tea during this trip, he soon became enamored with the rich, fermented flavor and cultural depth of the dark leaves. Over the years, he cultivated a collection of Puer teas and adopted tea trees, with the idea of one day creating a place to enjoy and share this passion fully. That vision eventually laid the groundwork for what would become POUYUENJI HILLS, when a desire for a quiet retreat after retirement led to the reuse of a parcel of land in the hills. Slowly, plot by plot, it grew into the landscape now known as POUYUENJI HILLS. Their personal affection for tea informed not only the design of the space but its ethos—an embodiment of tea’s essence in both structure and spirit.
Puer Tea Ceremony: A Moment of Presence
Hidden in the back of the collection section, bright sunshine subtly filters through gauzy white curtains, casting soft light on the plain walls and wide dark wood table. The room is minimal yet deeply inviting. A calm presence settles as the tea host begins the ceremony, accompanied by the soft hum of a boiling kettle and fragrant steam rising from freshly steeped tea leaves.
As the host speaks in gentle tones, the story of Puer unfolds, beginning with how Mr. Tsai came to love this particular tea. Guests sample Jin Da Mo raw Puer (金達摩生普洱), served in the traditional style, followed by a 12-hours-brewed aged Puer (熟普洱) that surprises not just with its flavor, but also the thoughtfulness of the presentation. The experience is immersive, meditative, and quietly luxurious.
The Art of Patisserie: A Sensory Finale
If one afternoon leaves you craving a sweet finale, POUYUENJI Patisserie offers thoughtfully curated afternoon tea sets to satisfy dessert lovers—with, of course, a refined selection of high-quality teas. Each item comes with a proper introduction. From the gradient shining through the glass, reflecting on the beautiful mirror-bottom tea tray, to the tea served in carefully picked vessels, every element speaks to deliberate beauty.
The menu is designed by renowned Japanese pâtissier Makito Hiratsuka, known for combining traditional techniques with unexpected twists. Standout creations include a reinterpretation of Japanese mochi and Taiwanese sweet tofu (豆花), paired with a miso-based sauce that blurs savory and sweet; and a refreshing grape tart centered with madeleine sponge—a multi-layered surprise that’s as thoughtful as it is tasty.
A Scoop of Terroir: Gelato Reimagined
At POUYUENJI HILLS, dessert becomes a story of its own. At the gelato counter, Puer once again takes center stage—this time frozen into silky scoops of pure delight. Flavors like raw Puer (生普洱), Dahongpao (大紅袍), and Baijiguan (白雞冠) aren’t just rare—they’re nearly unheard of in Taiwan’s tea dessert scene due to local trade protections. Each bite blends creamy texture with the earthy depth of aged tea, showcasing how tea terroir can extend into the sweet and unexpected.
For those looking to pause for a longer meal, the kitchen right next to it offers light western food designed for both flavor and leisure. Guests can rent picnic baskets and mats, turning the grassy grounds into their own alfresco dining retreat. Meals come in thoughtfully packed boxes—chic, functional, and perfect for slow enjoyment under the open sky.
Entering the Hills: Play Find and Other Spaces
The journey starts with a winding path lined by sweet gum and bald cypress trees, leading to a striking white, two-story building that serves as the gateway to the entire experience.
On the ground floor, a thoughtfully designed tea exhibition introduces the basics of tea cultivation and fermentation, connecting stories from both Eastern and Western traditions. Clear English signage and interactive displays make it accessible and engaging to first-time tea drinkers and seasoned enthusiasts alike.
Upstairs, the atmosphere softens—vintage vinyl records play beside curated photography books and designer furnishings. Through expansive windows framing the hills, guests can discover another dedicated tea ceremony space—one that continues the property’s invitation to engage with Puer in a quiet and thoughtful way.
Next door, selected shops occupy a luminous glass structure filled with lifestyle goods and sensory charm. Minimalist ceramics, handmade accessories, and home items offer a glimpse of how tea culture extends beyond the teacup.
Among the highlights is the milk tea corner, where Puer takes center stage. Unlike the more common black, green, or oolong tea bases, the house blend here delivers a smooth yet earthy profile, tailor-made for milk tea. It pairs delightfully with brioche ice cream panini and other tea-friendly sweet nibbles.
Visitors can also explore Play Studio, a workshop space for hands-on crafting, with courses that change monthly to reflect seasonal inspiration and creative trends. Whether you’re designing a tea-inspired keepsake or simply enjoying the process of serene mixtures with arts and creativity, the studio reinforces the site’s spirit of slow exploration.
A Lifestyle, Not Just a Cup
Before heading out, visitors are invited to browse the POUYUENJI Collection—a curated shop featuring the brand’s signature selections, artisanal goods, and a discreet tea ceremony space for deeper engagement.
Rather than promoting a luxury lifestyle, POUYUENJI HILLS gently presents an invitation to live more mindfully—echoing the heart of tea culture, where patience, presence, and appreciation for subtlety are not only valued but essential. The setting doesn’t overwhelm with opulence but instead cultivates a sincere atmosphere where slowness, awareness, and sensory appreciation feel natural.
Just like aging Puer tea, this place asks for time. And in return, it offers a moment of clarity—a reminder that good things often unfold at their own pace. In its stillness, POUYUENJI HILLS captures what tea culture has long taught: that mindfulness is not an escape from life but a way of being deeply in it.
How to get there
– Driving
Northbound (from Taichung/Southern Taiwan):
Take National Freeway No. 1 (Formosa Freeway) northbound, exit at Sanyi Interchange, follow local roads toward Xihu (西湖) area, and navigate to 西湖28-8號.
Southbound (from Taipei/Northern Taiwan):
Take National Freeway No. 1 (Formosa Freeway) southbound, exit at Sanyi Interchange, follow local roads toward Xihu (西湖) area, and navigate to 西湖28-8號.
– Shuttle bus *reservation in advance needed*
(10 AM) Taichung HSR Station -> Chaoma (朝馬) Taichung -> POUYUENJI HILLS
(3:30 PM) POUYUENJI HILLS -> Chaoma (朝馬) Taichung -> Taichung HSR Station
