Author/ Photos Chris Van Laak
Editor Levarcy Chen
Tainan has a richer history than most other places in the country. In some urban spots in Taiwan’s oldest city, which initially grew around a Dutch fort founded in 1622, the long history is obvious. Many of its oldest buildings, such as for example, Shuixian Temple (水仙宮) in West Central District, right next to Yongle Market (永樂市場)—the No. 1 hidden spot in Tainan for the special vintage flair—show off the scars that the centuries have carved into their wooden beams with pride.
Other staple pieces that no Tainan visitor should miss have the city’s long history inscribed into them in less obvious ways. A prime example is Tainan’s unique cuisine: Always down to earth, always with a delicate balance of sweet and savory nuances, it features many dishes that originate in a time before steamed rice and noodles became staples in Taiwanese cuisine.
In Tainan, rice often comes as a kind of cake, for example, as the famous Tainan migao/rice cake (米粿), or as savory sticky rice pudding, known locally as wagui (碗粿). Typical “Tainan food” is, in my opinion, best in the many small eateries along Guohua Street (國華街), around Shuixian Temple and Yongle Market.
Hungry travelers should start their exploration of the area at Qicheng Rice Cake (七誠米粿) , in my opinion, the best migao in town. At Qicheng, it is served in several different combinations, from a light snack to a filling meal with fried egg and pork.
Qicheng is, as good restaurants are, often well-crowded. It is not exactly at the center of the bustling Guohua Street, though. The biggest crowds are usually a few steps further up, on the stretch along the Yongle Market.
The whole area is centered on the market, but to visitors, this is not easy to see. The complications that might confuse non-locals start with finding access to the market. Several flights of stairs lead up to it—for example, at the corner of Guohua Street and Minzu Road (民族路), where they’re relatively easy to find—but none of them bear the name of the place they lead to, nor do they give visitors any hints that upstairs lies a unique gem——a trendy place to eat, drink and shop, and a place forgotten by history.
The market is housed in an elongated three-story building running for about 100m along Guohua Street, only interrupted by a short extension of Lane 307, Ximen Road (西門路), which cuts right through it. The first floor, accessible from street level, is dominated by small eateries serving traditional fare. There is little, though, that reveals they are part of a market, or might at least be seen as such. Locals aren’t sure whether that is the case either. At one point, while eating a bowl of wagui at Tainan Yi Wei Pin (台南一味品), which serves the best, I asked my tablemates, who I had just met, how to get to the market. Some said I was already there, others pointed at some stairs leading up.
The second floor is indeed the heart of the market. It features two-times-two hallways lined with shopfronts. They are connected by a skybridge over the lane cutting the market in two. The third floor is not open to the public—but steep stairs lead up to the top floor from each second-story shop. This strikingly odd design feature reveals how many markets and small standalone shops were built in Taiwan after World War II. They were places to shop and places to live—downstairs was the family-run business, upstairs their living quarters.
Yongle Market’s 234 stalls measure about 4-by-4 meters each, and one can only imagine how crammed the living conditions were for multigenerational families living above their businesses. The market is clearly from a different time. Its architecture leaves no doubt about this fact, as do the things that visitors can find along the hallways, presumably left behind (or still being used) by its original tenants.
The market was built in 1962, but its history begins earlier. In one of the oldest parts of the city, it was originally the site of the usual maze of tight alleys alongside family homes and small shops. They, however, were damaged by the Japanese colonial administration during World War II. Fearing that fires would rage unabated in the area if Tainan were to be bombed by Allied aircraft, they decided to raze the houses and create a firebreak. With the original inhabitants forced out (and the Japanese gone, too, after the war), the empty plot became an informal market that soon gained a notorious reputation for stolen goods, hence the name “Thieves’ Market” (賊仔市). Questions about compensation for those who were forced to leave by the Japanese were also left unaddressed, leading to more negative sentiment.
Thieves’ Market was seen as a stain on the cityscape, especially by the authorities, who decided to replace it with a new structure. It should be a fully fledged market, where informal street vendors could become reputable business owners. It still took a full 10 to 15 years until the Yongle Market was fully operational, though. Proper restrooms and drainage were initially lacking, and blatant favouritism had been practiced by the authorities when distributing the stalls, leading to disputes and vendors refusing to move to “bad spots” in the new structure.
Yongle Market has been underused even during its best times around the 1980s—or at least its best times so far. Even though many of the aging original market vendors have moved out, in many cases leaving behind no-longer-wanted possessions, or quietly shut their stores and moved down from the third floor to the second, the market is seeing a remarkable revival in recent years.
Attracted by its central location, beautiful architecture, and olden-days vibe, local entrepreneurs of the new generation have moved in, running a wide variety of businesses: From vintage stores to fashion brands, from old-timey bars to cafes, from qipao (旗袍) rentals to tearooms seeking to revive traditions that are on the retreat elsewhere.
Let’s start with something special: At Qi Shi (旗時), you can rent traditional costumes that transport you right back to the Tainan of the early 20th century, for the day or just a photo shoot on site. And if renting is not enough, Pure Love Vintage (純情百貨行) might have the right fashion for you, from all eras past and present, including from contemporary local designers and brands.
Tea lovers have multiple options in Yongle Market, but Cha Wu Jie (茶屋介) and Lys Tea (莉蒔) are my favorites. If coffee and pastries are more your thing, Tainan Secret Cafe (台南-秘氏咖啡) is the place to go, and if you need a stiff drink after a long day exploring, Find Gin Bar (尋琴記) is my recommendation.
Different parts of the market have distinct characters: The northwestern part is mostly occupied by young businesses, while the northeastern part houses many original market vendors who no longer run their businesses, and the southwestern part is nearly left deserted.
The same is true for the two temples that were included in the original design of the market, inside regular 4-by-4 meter booths. They still serve their function as community temples. On hot days, however, when residents open their front doors to let cooler air in, it seems there are many more temples all of a sudden. Many market stalls-turned-family homes tend to impressive altars.
Visitors to the market should always be aware that, while shops are open to the public, family homes are not. Giving residents the privacy they deserve is a must. It is true, though, that the blending of different times and different functions is part of the magic. Visitors are encouraged to soak in the intimate atmosphere in respectful ways.
One experience that I soaked in Yongle Market, finding it deeply impressive, was this: I was walking past a family home in front of which three old women were sitting on wicker chairs listening to a pocket radio (yes, a radio, not YouTube on a smartphone). The program was in Japanese, and it sounded like the airwaves must have been on their way to the receiver for decades. I felt like the history of the market had come full circle–from the Japanese setting off a chain of events by burning down the original houses, to me visiting the market and pondering its history with all its contradictions.
- Shuixian Temple Market (水仙宮市場)
📍No. 230, Section 2, Hai’an Rd, West Central District, Tainan City, 700
🕰️ Mon- Sun 06:00 AM -12:00 PM - YongLe Market (永樂市場)
📍No. 123, Section 3, Guohua St, West Central District, Tainan City, 700
🕰️ Mon- Sun 07:30-17:30 - Qicheng Rice Cake /Miguo (七誠米粿)
📍No. 105, Section 3, Guohua St, West Central District, Tainan City, 700
🕰️ Mon- Sun 07:30 – 20:00 - Tainan Yi Wei Pin (台南一味品)
📍No. 177, Section 3, Guohua St, West Central District, Tainan City, 700
🕰️ Mon- Sun 05:00 -17:00 , Tue off - Qishi (旗時)
📍Room 230, 2F., No. 123, Section 3, Guohua St, West Central District, Tainan City, 700
🕰️ Thu-Sun 11:00- 19:00 - Pure Love Vintage (純情百貨行)
📍Room No. 123, Section 3, Guohua St, West Central District, Tainan City, 700
🕰️ Thu- Mon 14:00- 18:50, Tue& Wed Off - Cha Wu Jie (茶屋界)
📍Room 125, 2F., No. 123, Section 3, Guohua St, West Central District, Tainan City, 700
🕰️ Fri- Sun 12:00 -20:00, Mon 12:00 – 17:00, Tue-Thu off - Lys Tea (莉蒔)
📍No. 123之208, Section 3, Guohua St, West Central District, Tainan City, 700
🕰️ Opening times TBC. Contact via social media for details. - Tainan Secret Cafe (秘氏咖啡)
📍Room 160, 2F., No. 123, Section 3, Guohua St, West Central District, Tainan City, 700
🕰️ Mon-Sun 14:00-22:00 - Find Gin Bar (尋琴記)
📍Room 225, 2F., No. 123, Section 3, Guohua St, West Central District, Tainan City, 700
🕰️ Mon- Sun 18:00-00:00
*Editor’s friendly heads-up:
About Tainan’s laid-back shop culture: opening hours here are more like gentle suggestions! Shops sometimes open late, close early, or take spontaneous breaks—it’s all part of the city’s relaxed charm. If you’re planning to visit a specific spot, we highly recommend calling ahead or dropping them a message on social media to double-check. But hey, if you do find a place unexpectedly closed, don’t worry! Tainan’s full of surprises, and you might just stumble upon another amazing hidden gem while wandering around. That’s the beauty of this free-spirited city—you never know what awesome secret spots you’ll discover!
